Thu 22/01-2015 Day 758

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qgnsoVHgUoU/VM4GMU7_VnI/AAAAAAAAlJ4/CAya4naUDuU/s144-c-o/IMG_1131.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110828553236862578″ caption=”River bank in Sao Joao da Barra” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1131.JPG” ]

 

Highlights: A short but stunning river paddle
Lowlights: Ugly harbor campsite
Launch: Low dumper
Landing: Moderate dumper
Pos: here
Loc: Harbor area
Acc: tent
Dist: 48,8 km
Start: 6:05 End: 16:35

Today was at least 15- under 20 knots all day fore casted, no heavy breezing up in the afternoon. Good. The 17 windmills before the river mouth all stayed calm this morning! At least once again a full paddle day! No bother at night at my car park campsite, just one car at 10 pm parking silently on another corner and doing whatever there in darkness… I had to launch from my steep beach at highest tide through a low dumper, all easy.The first section was along the wide bay to that large river mouth with two entries which were connected forming an island out of the headland. I was not really sure if I should paddle inside the river system, as distance wise it would not really be shorter.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-X2rUnbbnA0I/VM4GMLpeI1I/AAAAAAAAlJ4/VwR-nDrE-ZU/s144-c-o/IMG_1133.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110828550743270226″ caption=”I really don’t know those strange shaped plants on the river bank – who can tell me?” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1133.JPG” ]

[pe2-image src=”http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_0RAUpiJ2EI/VM4F-8nmGAI/AAAAAAAAlJ4/E9w2b0-iUVQ/s144-c-o/IMG_1130.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110828323370571778″ caption=”Lovely river bushes with orange, red and yellow blossoms” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1130.JPG” ]

 

I easily got inside the reef belt through lowest surf after a dead calm 1 km area before over muddy ground. I decided eventually to go inside for the change,as I was curious how it is looking in there. The first entrance had a very strong current, the fishing boat just coming out had an unusual speed. I couldn’t sneak around the first headland as fishing lines were blocking my close way.So I had to ferry glide across the entrance, and was almost back out to sea again when I eventually was able to make headway inside some kind of eddy. The real corner into the river on that side I had to get out of my boat and to drag it around in the shallow strong current.No the first time I am entering a shallow strong current river like this!

Once really in, I surely had to paddle slowly with not more 3 km/h against the current until I hit the large river leading me out again. I once more was fascinated about the change of scenery and ambiance, there the open sea with wind and noisy surf, here silence, wind still and hot, paddling very close to the bushed sometimes in shade, birds singing, flowers blooming and smelling, herons on mud areas, crabs climbing mangrove trees over mud on half low tide. I am always put back with my thoughts to my Amazon time, and the area between Belem and Sao Luis. Those paddling days were not too bad!

The occasional typical lean and long river boat was passing by with the characteristic tuck tuck of the engine on a long pole able to operate in flat water. They obviously had some kind of plantation and animals on the outer island, at some spot there were many of those boats parked like worker’s cars in a parking lot.When I was turning into the large river, I had the current behind me, and slowly headed past the many boats at the city’s harbor back to the open sea. At the exit, I got really washed out through a washing machine of messed up current, worrying me almost to get washed where I didn’t want to be. But all good, the strong current kept on going for a while along the coast. Some lower waves area marked the exit of the river bar area, all easy. But that the sea can wash here up high and crashing on the beach with might showed the broken houses in the first row all broken into the sea.It looked almost like a Tsunami has left it’s destroying force here for about a kilometer. No pleasant thought to have owned a house here.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-g2TatgxkZN4/VM4GC20_saI/AAAAAAAAlJ4/73WKMpJdWvw/s144-c-o/IMG_1135.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110828390535639458″ caption=”The sea must have gone wild at some point on the coast behind Sao Joao da Barra – ordid they simplybuildtoo close to the water line?” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1135.JPG” ]

 

The sea relatively stayed high when tide changed after noon, and the breakers and wash up the beach looked quite unfriendly. As I was aiming for this wide harbor area to land safely, I was not too worried. Only that the wind would breeze up too strong again…but it stayed under 20 knots like fore casted. It was due from the side, so not really helpful, but not much slowing me down either.

I first had to pass an about 2 km long jetty, and my decision was clear to paddle under neath. It is kind of hypnotic to steer all the time at the bridge poles, seeing changing their angle and crossing in new patterns over, always 5 poles in a row. And it is always scary to think a swell wave would push you against those five poles in a row if there is not enough space in between to pass safely…you can’t help! About three moderate size fishing boats came across me from under the jetty, they have an engine…but eventually I reached the jetty without being in crossed poles trance, passed safely and was quite relieved.

It was bumpy behind the long jetty, with the reflection and crossover of a shorter smaller one just behind it. I was aiming for the first full break water harbor, which I guess was much longer than on the sat image. They are constantly working on this harbor area and building new break waters here! This seemed to just being extended, and I had to pddle hard out against the wind to reach the end of the breakwater to be able to eventually turn in! The right corner I thought was the calmest to land on that more or less wild beach in between the break waters was having a cliff like sand wall behind and the harbor worker’s quarters, I rather aimed now to the left side just before the real harbor break water. The breaker was one single dumper on a steep beach, doable. The sand was looking like they had played war with heavy machines on it, obviously working also here or picking fresh sand to build something some where else.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-dll90RlJ_V4/VM4GZQ6116I/AAAAAAAAlJ4/7vADlHa3A64/s144-c-o/IMG_1143.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110828775496603554″ caption=”On the other side of the long break water of the harbor – a huge ship is approaching” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1143.JPG” ]

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-3NDuNCGyCdw/VM4GOVWJSsI/AAAAAAAAlJ4/LOXPKSuJbZY/s144-c-o/IMG_1136.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110828587706305218″ caption=”Camp on the very much dug beach besides the breakwater in the harbor area” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1136.JPG” ]

 

I camped close to the harbor break water, hoping to be far away from all possible harbor workers maybe spending their free hours on this beach. Amazingly, no quad bike or whatever came by so far. For the change, I got someway too close neighbors by a huge ship parking just on the other side of the harbor wall where I really not expected any ship to stop already! Their bridge kooked high up over the wall, and I spotted already some officers with binoculars looking at me and my tent. The ship went noisily aback and forth, before it eventually after probably an hour stopped the engine and parked just maybe 30 m behind me inside the harbor. Strange neighbors watching me now…but when no one came until now when it’s dark, this spot will be all right here for the night! Beaches are still public…where as the harbor had just behind me a huge sign about a private area. I didn’t like to paddle in there, as I was worried not to find any shallow spot to disembark, only steep walls and I’d be trapped against the wind…this beach is ok. No real nature reserve though…

13 comments on “Thu 22/01-2015 Day 758

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Rasmall Lackey

I always enjoy paddling near the shore on my river kayaking trips as long as there are no flying bugs and not too many alligators guarding the river.For me,getting to paddle some ocean shoreline is my Changup of scenery.Its good that you’re choosing to change up the scenery when you have the choice.Safe paddling.

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