Day 201, Thursday, 06.08.2009

 

To reach open water, I even had to back paddle 2 km today! Last night it looked like there was a reef gap furher south, but this morning there were breakers allover…so back into Gnarraloo Bay, and paddling close to the scary breakers out to the relatively quiet open sea. About 5 km extra detour today…but safe.

 

The plan of action was heading towards Cape Cuvier, 60 km, but the headwinds today made me feel like crawling…which I was, speed less than 4 km/h. No way to reach Cape Cuvier before sunset…it would have been 9pm or even later, as the wind used to be strong south easterlies in the morning, easing a little over lunchtime, and then strong south westerly’s again until late night.

 

I really felt worn out from that slog into steep chop all morning, and as it was easing around 2pm, I was still paddling slow. So pulling into Red Bluff at around 4pm was the only option, 40 km away, including the reef detour of the morning.

 

I had some sayings from the few fellow paddlers who have been here on my mind like “You should be able to get into Red Bluff on a quiet day!” and “I felt I would never be able to get off that platform again!” – on Google Earth it looked like a nice white sandy bay. The wind was coming out of the bay, the water relatively quiet, not much swell to feel…so what was that landing all about???

 

I came closer, and eventually saw some spray on the sandy beach…closer, and I saw some more, bigger spray…closer, and I realized that there were some big fat dumpers waiting!!!

 

It looked like with some good timing landing would be ok, the back surge was not too wide, and the beach didn’t seem to be steep in the middle where I chose to land.

 

I was waiting for a big set passing, and quickly sprinted in. I jumped out, and pulled my boat up through not too heavy back surge and on a flat beach. It felt like not much problems this way…

 

Then I was standing there for a while, watching the shore break dumper developing in the sets – with my eyes getting wider and wider – this was actually SCARY and HUGE!!! It was at maximum a 3 meters high hollow dumper, with manes of spray…how could I get out again next day??? Well, timing again…but with a heavy loaded boat it was not as easy as if you’d like to jump on a lightweight surf ski…I may ask some fellows for launching help then.

 

Getting a big push, already sitting in the cockpit with the spray deck closed makes a big difference to dragging the boat afloat by yourself, trying to jump on with legs still out and spray deck still open to paddle out as fast as possible, hoping not to catch the next wave and to get filled up with water and maybe trashed from the next dumper.

 

In an already closed boat you may duck forward if you catch a wave from the next dumper before reaching quiet waters.

 

My evening went by with putting up the tent on the beach, having some sore stomach feeling from the day’s efforts and the next day’s outlook.

 

I was checking again the forecast, and it said the same as the previous days – strong south easterlies in the morning, easing a bit over lunch, then strong south westerly’s…but the outlook for Saturday and Sunday were quiet northerlies!

 

I made my decision – I’ll have a FULL DAY OFF tomorrow! So I would have two days left to Carnarvon – 60 km to Point Quobba, 55 km to Carnarvon, where I’ll get hosted by the rescue crew! Nice outlook!

 

But headwinds, recovery, blog write-ups…all good reasons for a day without paddling. I won’t call it a rest day, but maybe I can get my website write-ups-chore done soon and have some REAL rest.

 

Text message from Freya via satellite phone:

24.01 113.26, Red Bluff. 40km, 7:30 am to 4:00 pm. Strong headwinds all morning wore me out, easing very little at 2pm. 40km was enough, landed on a heavy dumping beach in Red Bluff, wonder how to get out tomorrow…. One whale close by at 8 am.

8 comments on “Day 201, Thursday, 06.08.2009

Dieter

Hey Freya, it’s Sunday now and we in South Africa are celebrating “Womans Day” What an example you are to all, I wish you all the best for the rest of your trip, enjoy the West Coast, its beautiful and I pray the natural beauty will give you the strength you need.Thanks to for sharing your trip with us mere mortals, you are truly an inspiration to all us paddlers.

jamie smith

Hang in there Freya. Your trip inspired me to go on one of my own and I just got back (30 days). How is your body weight holding up? Just keep pounding out those kilometers girl! Good luck from Canada..

Well done on a fantastic achievement of getting around the top without being eaten. I really don’t know how that could be done as I lived and paddled in Port Headland for several years and crocodile attacks were a common occurence. I also have lived and paddled ocean skis in the Margaret River area over the last eight years and the swell in this area is just frightening at this time of the year. The default wind is also howling south westers most of the time. Hopefully you will get the correct weather window to get through the area. I think if you have made it through the North somebody must be looking out for you. Well Done

Adrian (Albany)

This is about day 203 isnt it Freya, its all downhill from now on. Its a bloody good achievement to have gotten where you are today. Although I would argue that the toughest stretches stil lie ahead down the West Coast and along the bottom.

The offer of a bed in Albany is still available to you but you would need to be here well before November as we are off to your beautiful country for a holiday.

Keep it going, keep your chin up and keep smiling, you are doing what others only dream about.

Fred

I wish you easy paddling tomorrow Freya. I am in Michigan and I truly admire you and your accomplishments. It must be an amazing adventure you are having. I hope you plan on writing about it when you are done.
Too bad you couldn’t take a day to do some fly fishing while you are there. 🙂

Gra

Ahhhhhh, Red Bluff (an iconic lefthander surf break out off the headland there) under a big fat moon. what a beautiful place to be.
God, you must be tired though. Sending you best wishes and some easy passages.

Shorty

Freya,,looks like you are really doing it tough at the moment, i can’t see you getting to Carnarvon until Sunday now,,we shall see i guess,,for interested readers Sea Rescue will be escourting her in to Carnarvon and everythings organised including a warm bed upon her arrival 🙂

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