Day 207, Wednesday, 12.08.2009

Hundreds of cormorants are living on that beach!

I had a nice rest day! The sky was kind of overcasted all day, so the tent didn’t get too hot. I was chatting on my cell phone from the high red dune all morning with various people, had a nap on lunchtime, and climbed the dune again later in the afternoon, hoping I could even get my laptop computer online. But my Blacberry thing obviously had a better antenna, so e-mailing was only on that device possible, better than NO e-mails! 

At some point I was hearing someone shouting from the beach below me – the guy was calling ME! I was thinking this must be one of the fishermen from last night, bringing me a piece of nicely fried fish or so…but it was actually a fellow kayaker, Wayne Poulsen, bringing me 4 oranges and a nice chat! Internet makes it possible to know where I am…he was camping on the next “official” campsite, and has heard as well from the fishermen about me being there!

I had instantly two of the juicy oranges when he left, yummy, thanks a lot! I must have looked like an underfed, needy kayaker :-))

 

Email from Freya:

No paddling today, as I can as well have a rest day here after that tough crossing than hanging out in Denham three days in a row.
Latest plan according to the possible long-term forecast is paddle to Denham tomorrow (Thursday), Friday and Saturday off, maybe paddle to Steep Point on Sunday (when the forecast will be settled as it looks like now for Monday) and hopefully the weather stays settled for the cliffs then.

13 comments on “Day 207, Wednesday, 12.08.2009

Alyth & Vic

Congratulations Freya. We have followed your journey nearly every day and find you inspirational – what can be done when you follow your dreams. It was a pleasure to have met you in Mackay (Finch Hatton Gorge) QLD, and hope you return someday to stay longer with us. Your accomplishments have made history and contributed to pushing the boundaries for adventurers.

Rose

Congratulations on your progress so far Freya…and all the best to you as you paddle past those cliffs! Most of all, just enjoy that wonderful part of the world!

Adrian (Albany)

Freya, good luck when the weather turns and settles for you with the Zuytdorp cliffs they are a formidable obstacle without any suitable night landings along the coast and the seas can be get quite bad in that area.

As Shorty said the Kalbarri River mouth is quite treacherous at times and a bit of local knowledge goes a long way as you are well aware .

Good luck and safe paddling.

Kelvin

Freya, when you get to Steep point keep an eye out for whalesharks. They often feed in the currents there. Not sure if it’s too late in the season there but they may still be around.

Kelvin

Shorty

Freya, looking with interest at the cliffs challenge, i believe you might have someone tagging along with you, thats a great idea if its true, it was mentioned to me that Terry Bolands coming up soon to keep an eye on you, you will not find a more knowledgable person for that area if thats correct

I don’t think you will get to see Monkey Mia (world famous spot near Denham where the dolphins come in to be hand fed)be good if you can though (drive up on your break maybe?)

I hope you take up the Rescue Teams offer of escourt into Kalbarri,,the river mouth is dangerous,,cheers,,,,

Janita K

Doug and Glicker…well done! Love your limerick Doug…hopefully someone will read it with gusto at Freyas’ arrival ceremony in Melbourne in the coming months.
Glicker…your addition of historical details is such an asset to all readers who are trying hard to get a grip on the area Freya is paddling through. The competition between Boudin and Mathew Flinders was highlighted well in the journals of Mathew Flinders which Tim Flannery edited into the book “Terra Australis : Matthew Flinders’ great adventures in the circumnavigation of Australia”. This is especially so in the waters off the southern coastline of Oz.
I had the delight of pressing my nose flat to the window in a flight over the top end south of Darwin this week on our way back from Singapore. I was thinking of Freya the whole time…..its a very very lonely looking coastline and the irridescent blue of the ocean contrasts so beautifully with the red / orange ochre of the landscape.
Freya should be paid a hefty endorsement fee from the NT and WA Tourism Bureau I reckon.
Go safely Freya
Janita
Hervey Bay
QLD

Doug Stirling

A limerick for Freya –

There once was a paddler named Freya
She wanted to kayak Australia
We’re talking circumnavigate
Amid whales, sharks and aggregate
Only brave, strong Freya could beatya!

She’s tackling the elements solo
Versus headwinds, big surf, waves – go low
Oh courageous one, be the first
Never mind the fatigue and thirst
Freya Hoffmeister beats every foe!

All the best in your journey,

Doug Stirling
Lake Oswego, Oregon

glicker

chuck…thanks for the link. serious commitment negotiating those cliffs…and those chaps did it as a team; far tougher mentally going solo. Is this the line cliff section on the west coast or is there another. good luck Freya!

Frank Fichtmueller

Freya – für die Etappe ab Denham alles Gute, hoffentlich ruhige See und wenig Wind. Ruh Dich wirklich erst mal aus. Machs gut. Frank

Chuck H.

Gicker – Terry Bolland (“Canoeing Down Under”), who provided Freya with valuable support, has written an excellent description of kayaking the Zuytdorp Cliffs, going north from Kalibarri to Steep Point. Entitled “Zuytdorp Memories, January 2002 – A Days Paddle In The Life Of A Sea Kayaker”, it can be found on his website. URL for the piece is: http://www.canoeingdownunder.com.au/trips2.php

glicker

I guess Denahm (pop. 607; well, 608 if you hung out there) is a bit on the sleepy side. I just read that D. is 831 kilometres (516 mi) north of Perth, and is the westernmost town in Australia and named in honour of Captain Henry Mangles Denham of the Royal Navy, who charted Shark Bay in 1858. Today Denham survives as the gateway for the tourists who come to see the dolphins at Monkey Mia, which is located 23 kilometres (14 mi) northeast of the town.

The Denham area was the first part of the Australian mainland discovered by European sailors. On 25 October 1616, Dutch explorer Dirk Hartog and crew came unexpectedly upon “various islands, which were, however, found uninhabited.” He made landfall at an island now called Dirk Hartog Island off the coast of Shark Bay. Hartog spent three days examining the coast and nearby islands. He named the area Eendrachtsland after his ship, but this name has not endured. Finding little of interest, Hartog continued sailing northwards charting this previously undiscovered coast to about 22° South. In 1696 the Flemish explorer Willem de Vlamingh landed on the island. Later explorers included William Dampier, and the Frenchmen Freycinet, Hamelin and Baudin20in the early 1800s.

The coast remained uninhabited by Europeans until the middle of the nineteenth century. The first pearls found in Western Australia were discovered in Shark Bay in 1854 by a Lieutenant Helpman, the so-called ‘Admiral of the Swan River Navy’, who found the dense beds of pearl-shell oysters that are abundant there.

When does the cliff section begin? How long does it last?

The earlier name to that of Denham was ‘Freshwater Camp’ when it was a pearling camp

Kalbarri-PHIL

G’DAY FREYA rest up you deserve it and save some energy for the Cliffs ,HOPEFULLY some Northerlies for you on monday/tuesday and the swell drops after Fridays blow.Was calm as yesterday here went out for a paddle and caught up with 4 Humpbacks cruiseing north ,MAGIC,See you next week

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