Bucket shower in Rex’s beach tin shack
This morning the van was fully loaded, my spare and main kayak were strapped to the roof rack, and we drove off to Cheyne Beach where I took out on Saturday noon!
Greg would be driving one last time back to Albany for the very last chores and s to be done. I planned to paddle the 50 km to Cheyne Inlet, and was hoping to get there despite the forecast of some moderate headwinds.
But headwinds didn’t stay moderate all day, they breezed up to solid 20 kn after lunchtime, and my speed dropped down to around 3 km/h only. I would arrive two to three hours after darkness in this way, as I started quite late at 7.30 am with all the driving. Not really something to look forward to, and I called Greg to meet me at Willyun Beach instead of Cheyne Inlet. Glad he has already checked out the other day that potential take out point!
He was waiting with the van at the beach tin shack of local farmer Rex Smith and his two lovely daughters Kayla (11) and Talia (8), already parked leveled, ready to stay the night! My landing spot was directed by Greg via VHF radio, and I came in nicely around a corner with a bit of reef protection. This is how a perfect support crew was working! I was very glad to see him, and quite keen to sleep first night in our newly set up comfortable vehicle!
Rex invited me for a hot shower in the tin shack, and with water from a rainwater tank and on a wood stove he heated enough water for the refreshing hot bucket shower!
Barry, Talia, Kayla and Rex in the beach tin shack
The guys cooked some good dinner in the shack. Rex dish was kangaroo tail stew! Delicious! Rex’s father Barry joined us on the dinner. I was quite tired from the headwind paddling day and happy to crash soon in our new bed. What a luxury!
Sat-phone message from Freya:
34.41 118.38, Willyun Beach. 35 km, 7:30 am to 5:00 pm. The headwind was too much to go
further—nice beach camp and the first time with van
7 comments on “Day 261, Monday, 05.10.2009”
PPS: The above assumes, of course, that the situation has not already been taken care of in Freya’s usual thorough way. If it has, please excuse all my verbiage.
Given the shortness of time (it will only be a couple of weeks, or a bit more, before Freya reaches Eucla and thus is on the WA/SA border), and the delays inherent in bureaucratic procedures, I wonder is there is some energetic and influential sea kayaker who lives in, or near, Adelaide who could essentially “walk the papers through” the process of getting the necessary “written approval”.
This might be the most valuable service someone could perform toward the successful, and unhindered, success of this historic undertaking. Not to mention toward furthering the whole future of expedition kayaking … if Freya Hoffmeister can’t get approved for such a thing, you have to wonder who could!
All I know of the SA coast is what I see on Google Earth, but it looks awfully “cliffy” for a considerable distance eastwards from Eucla, and, as Rose put it so well a few posts above, I assume it will be important to keep well offshore to avoid getting banged around by wave rebound.
Having been a U.S. Government employee for more than four decades, I am painfully aware of just how awful things are getting essentially everywhere in the wonderful World of bureacracy, and certainly hope that something can be done to keep from adding the SA Authorities to Freya’s already heavy challenges.
PS: What the dickens is an “Expiation Fee”?
Just a quick note of advice.
On the 1st of September 2009 TransportSA legislation changed in South Australia requiring sea kayakers to have the written approval of the CEO of TransportSA to venture more than 2 nautical miles offshore. Unbelievable I know …. the relevant clause of M&H Legislation is detailed below –
13—Certain vessels not to be operated in unprotected waters
(1) A person must not, without the approval of the CEO, operate.
(a) a personal watercraft; or
(b) a canoe, kayak or other similar small human-powered vessel (other than a rowboat), in unprotected waters.
Maximum penalty: $1 250.
Expiation fee: $160.
Cheers
Brad Mob 0408 846 422
By the way, I don’t know anything about the tour business I’ve linked you to above…it’s just a very good description of the area Freya is now entering.
That’s about it Al. The cliffs go on for about 400 kilometres, with no safe landing places. They will probably be Freya’s greatest challenge, as will the waves if she paddles near to the cliffs. If she keeps far out from them, she will be paddling in open seas, and not just any sea…the wild Southern Ocean.
For those unfamiliar with the area, here is a better description: http://www.crikey-adventure-tours.com/great-australian-bight.html
Enjoy your rest Freya…you will need it! You can indeed do it, however, so we’ll see you soon, on the other side of the Bight!
The following is one description of the size of the Great Australian Bight, wide inlet of the Indian Ocean bordering on southern Australia. The bight is 1,100 km across, from Cape Pasley in WA to Cape Carnot in SA. The bight is up to 340 km wide. The bight has relatively shallow waters that are rarely more than 200 m deep within 160 km of the coast. The desolate, largely uninhabited Nullarbor Plain runs almost the full length of the bight. With the plain’s high (75 m) cliffs, the coast has long been known for its harshness. The area south of the bight is the South Australian Basin, which is more than 5,000 m deep. Some others may have a diffrent explanation, Al
I have a question for all the very knowledgable types following this blog. Maybe the locals are best to answer this one…Is there a place on the coastline where the Bight begins and ends?
Has Freya entered it yet? Do the locals view the BIght as not beginning till you are at least at Esperance or Cape Arid? When will Freya be out of the Bight?
Just curious coz I have learnt SO MUCH geography from Freyas travels now I am wanting to learn more.
Thanks in advance readers and THANK YOU FREYA for all the wonderful things about the Australian coastline we are learning.
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