Day 305, Wednesday, 18.11.2009

Bye, bye, Greg and van! see you in 16 days…

We had to say good bye to each other for 16 days…Greg would be driving 800 km south-east, parking the van at Rose Fletcher’s house. Thanks for that offer, Rose! She would be then driving Greg to Adelaide airport, from where he is flying back home to Cape York to look after his business. We were planning to meet again around Victor Harbor on December 3rd!

We had to carry all my heavy camping gear, food for 16 days and water for three days down the steep undercut path to the boat. Loading was just routine then, and I was off not without some tears in my eyes…but I’m used to not look back, just look ahead…

In some way I was looking forward to camp on any remote beach of my choice on my own again, without the pressure to get where Greg was able to meet me with the van. Sometimes I would  have loved to keep on going a bit, but there would be no other van access. Sometines I rather would have stopped earlier somewhere, but had to keep on plugging until I reached the meeting point…but generally, the pleasure and advantages of having a loving support crew were weighting more than the lack of “freedom” to camp in total freedom and remoteness.

Thank you, Greg, being there for me all those weeks! You did a marvellous job. Looking back, even with lots of local knowledge and pre-checking about potential water and food resupply spots, and with maybe sending some food parcels ahead, it would have been possible, but much, much more tough to paddle the Great Australian Bght without a support crew. Not to talk about the reduced speed and increased physical effort paddling the heavy boat…just the flies were easier to stand in a closed tent with fly screen than in the van…

The social isolation is another tough thing on a long trip like this on my own. It is sure nice to have good company at night and some more mental input with good talks. I reckon without modern communication possibilities like sat phone and good mobile phone/ e-mail range the other month, I would have been even more isolated!

 

The paddle today was starting with the usual lower headwinds across Searcy Bay. It was really a pleasure and always a good omen to watch all those dolphins joining me for lots of minutes, again and again! It always gives me a smile…but it’s so tough to catch a good picture with the digi cam!

Reaching Point Labatt, the full might of a hot off-land wind came down from the high towering cliffs – catabatic winds, I assume? It was almost horrifying! It was hitting me with such a power in the increasing gusts to probably up to 35 kn and more, I was almost making NO headway at all in those seconds! My GPS told me the truth…

I decided a bit late to put on my PFD, and on releasing it from the back deck I had to let it go after unhooking the bungee, to have both hands on my paddle to support my balance in a heavy gust. The PFD got blown off the backdeck in that second! Luckily it hooked itself to my spare paddle bag, and I could catch it off there. It won’t be much fun to fish it out of the water in these conditions! I picked a brief “lull” in the gusts to quickly put it on then, and felt a bit better…

My speed dropped to 1-2,5 km/hr. I could definitively feel my heavy loaded boat! It was one of the slowest paddles ever along those cliffs. Ever so slowly, I reached Cape Radstock, and the cliffs got lower and I paddled further away to cross directly to Venus Bay.

I couldn’t find any wind shelter on the cliff bottom, although I tried again and again, and reckoned later maybe I should have paddled 5 km + offshore to be in a bit less of the catabatic wid effect off the cliffs.

Off Baird Bay, it was almost magic suddenly NO wind at all, and I could relax a bit. At least the crossing to Venus Bay would be easy now, and I made good speed again.

I was even getting some friendly following winds! This is what I like about sea kayaking…conditions are changing by the minute, and you almost never know how strong, how rough it may be. Be prepared and skillfull for anything, or you won’t survive the day! At least you probably won’t get where you have liked to get…

I somehow felt the sea was calm and very low swell going, why not pushing a bit further than Venus Bay on this lovely late afternoon to make most of the now good conditions? There were some beaches further down the coast, see how far I could get…

I eventually decided to land on a nice wide remote beach, with very low to no surf going, 5 km south of Venus Bay. I felt happy to see no people and to be in remoteness again, rather than to stop into “town”! And I didn’t had to think about tides going in and out of the big inlet.

I happily put up my tent, and was soon adjusted in my old “camping on my own” routine. Still, it felt a bit odd, being alone again…but the usual nightly call got us closer again.

 

Message from Freya via email:

33.15 134.41, Rincon Beach. 60 km, 7:00 a.m. to 7:20 p.m.. Across Searcy Bay, 10+ knot headwinds and 100 dolphins around me. From Point Labatt to Cape Radstock 25 knot headwind, gusting 35 knots and more. Very funny. To Venus Bay easy going no wind, later even following. Somehow nice to camp on a remote beach, but missing my partner, too. Heavy boat again!!!

6 comments on “Day 305, Wednesday, 18.11.2009

Chuck H

Freya, your “full post” text is a beautiful thing, full of hard-earned wisdom. Definitely a “keeper” for that book I hope you write!

Mandy

Hi Freya
Keep up your fantastic effort. It does not seem that long ago since you were in Gove NT, however you have nearly completed your amazing journey. Best of luck with the remainder of your trip.

Freya, A great effort, truelly an inspiration to us all in what can be acheived when you have determination, talent and the will to succeed.
Hopefully the wind will blow in your favour.
Enjoy our magnificent scenery.
Safe paddling along the remainder of your journey.
Regards Graham Ey.

Raimo

A heavy boat and probably a heavy heart (without Greg). The end is so tantalizingly close. I’ve checked your progress every day since you started. It will be an amazing feat when you finish. Stay safe till the end. Hopefully there is a DVD or book at some point so that we can live your journey again. And hopefully at some point you pass through Vancouver, BC on a tour. Myself and a lot of my friends will be there. Best wishes for less headwinds and more tail winds. Raimo

Edda

Thanks very much to Greg for helping Freya through the desert. That could have been such a severe trip stage without your help.

Go Freya go, nearly there now… On the clock face only 8 to 6 o’clock to go. Good luck crossing to Adelaide, that will be another open water stage I would imagine. Just stear clear of the big boats!

Pam

Darned headwinds, and with a full boat. Of course you miss your partner, it’s always great to have someone greet us after a hard day at work or on the water, instead of having to unpack, set up camp, cook, etc. etc. etc. I had a look on the VSKC google earth map, and was amazed to see how close you seem to be to your destination Freya. Truly amazing. Every day on the water brings you closer, in spite of the nasty headwinds. Keep on keeping on!

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