Sunday, 24.07.2016
Day 22
57,1 km
8.05 h to 19.20 h
N 54.66634 W 08.82684
Rathlin O’Birne Island

What three hours of sleep more made a difference in attitude to do the boring crossing after that exciting sightseeing paddling day…I slept in nicely, even started to read a bit when my old energy and motivation to keep on going whenever the weather allows…sure it is not clever to leave out the calm morning hours and to know the last hours of the crossing may be a bit rough…but oh well, can’t be that bad…

Forecast was about 10-12 kn SSW until noon, pushing enough to be pleasant despite the stupid thought of “getting blown out to sea” as around 1 pm the wind was supposed to turn due west, but around 15-20 knots then.

But first I enjoyed one of the most stunning headlands I have ever seen! Downpatrick Head, maybe about 120 m vertical high, had one huge square block with a gap to paddle easily through, just to give the view on a line of deep caves, these ones unfortunately in too much swell to stick the nose in. The whole rocks looked like they were built out of Lego bricks, with here and there a lot missing. Unfortunately, I stupidly forgot to re-insert my memory card into my camera, so the last chance was to risk to use my phone for pictures on the water. Worked just all-right! On the crossing there would be nothing more to take pictures of!

The last headland of the area had a bunch of youngsters fishing from the top, they were probably wondering when I changed direction to head North-West into the open sea. The morning was clear, I could see my new headland for about ten km, then heavy rain for about 2 hrs closed the view down to zero. The waves some km off the headland were actually stronger than in the middle section, before the tide changed and it became slightly faster, but also more uncomfortable with quite strong following winds whipping up breakers here and there. On guy was quite serious to brace in, and I noticed that the quite narrow “Lettmann Speedliner” had quite some different point of instability than my old “Freya 18“ kayak…all good, just a bit of a scary moment.

The last five hours, I had to focus to keep a straight line, as I pointed quite off the lighthouse of “my” island, getting the wind and waves from the left behind. My neck got quite stiff by constantly look over my shoulders to watch possible breakers approaching…and concentration level had to stay constantly high. No thought of eating, drinking or peeing…but a lot of thoughts to aim properly to the gap to the right of the rocky steep island, not to talk about really not wanting to go swimming here as I would get blown right on to the rocks. I did not give the island many looks in this situation, just focused to get safe around the corner into the lee and off wind and breakers.

There was only one beach to see on the satellite images, that it was a rocky one with huge boulders from 30-80 cm in diameter I didn’t know. But the sea was calm here, and with some care I could land and get my kayak up the fat, but all round washed rocks. I hurried to unload, as such rocks are the worst for a kayak hull. But even unloaded, I had no chance than dragging my precious almost new kayaks higher, leaving a bunch of smelly orange-red Gelcoat marks. The downside of being by yourself, it stresses the kayak hull on landing by always needing to drag the boat.

I put up tent on a green beach on the top, and decided I rather go for a walk over the island than to accommodate me inside, as I was 100% sure for tomorrow to stay in with winds again up to 20 knots and seas quite high with 2 m.

I aimed to see what was about the house at the light house, but found only old signs of keeping a large sheep herd. All run down and rusty and ruined, only the lighthouse itself was in shape and even working! But s sheep herd of about 25 animals were still around, no people though. The house looked like it was in use in times of making walls with concrete in between, the walls all over the island looked like designed with a ruler! An old antenna, water tanks and even some new windows in one side of the house showed from not too recent activities. But ruined houses are always a spooky place, I think…the sea gulls were not happy with my presence either, and noisily flew around my head, some daringly close attacks.