Loc: Cabo los Frailes north
Acc: Hilleberg Keron 4 tent
Dist: 42,7 km
Start: 06:55 End: 15:25
One of the better days…maybe the best…good sleep, nice weather, nice scenery, easy seas, wonderful wildlife, perfect campsite, exciting snorkeling…
We had to launch from a steep beach with a single dumper washing up close to the shore, sometimes breaking quite high and with a violent high wash up. But it looked it had plenty of lulls to push in and to jump on – if you are patiently waiting for the right moment. It was Fylkir’s first launch from this kind of beach, and he took it easy and was even asking if he needs his PFD and helmet for this…? Sure, it never hurts to put it on…and please don’t underestimate the job!!! This can be dangerous!
He was launching first as usual, and dared to give the timing after waiting for only two breakers…I should not have let him go…he pushed in any way, and barely escaped two peaking waves, paddling with the legs still out.
Launchings like this are basically not hard to time and it is easy to get over the danger zone, as the nasty breaker is so close – if you wait long enough for the right lull. One crucial thing is to push in far enough not to hook your stern dry on the steep beach on the strong surge backward and then bridging the gap in a nasty unstable position. If you get caught by such a dumper, you might pitchpole backward and get fucked up completely. Fylkir was close, he realized it, and his hands were shaking for a while once we both were safe out. My launch was timed well, and I told Fylkir it will be me next time to give the signal…lesson learned for both of us.
The paddling day was pleasantly calm, with headwinds of only maybe 10-12 knots in the morning, in the afternoon very calm. The sea went down accordingly, no steep choppy wind waves like yesterday, and as we turned now more and more straight north, the steep beaches smoothed also out to easy landings everywhere. Life will be good in the Sea of Cortéz! The endless line of hotels also disappeared, and only single pleasant looking houses were scattered here and there. We met a guy on a wave ski looking happy with his craft, and a bunch of surfers on some spots.
We came up to Cabo Los Frailes, and were surprised how impressive the cliffs are looking here! Almost as nice as at Cabo San Lucas – minus the shitload of people and boats! There was one single small boat stopping at a small sea lion colony and throwing four snorkelers plus a guide lady into the water. It looked like the maybe twenty sea lions living here on this small rock were very much used to people visiting and watching them with strange looking faces (diving masks…). They were not annoyed neither by the swimmers nor by us being close in our kayaks having the spot for ourselves very soon. Great wildlife experience! Not sure if the guides have to feed the sea lions every time they are coming here in return not to eat the swimmers…LOL…
An amazing beach with huge round white boulders marked the entrance of the northern end of the Cape, and we were curious about the reef beaches behind it. It looked at least very inviting for snorkeling on the satellite images, a well protected northern facing area with many reefs.
We spotted small sandy patches between rocks before the main beach where the road came up to and decided to land easily between some boulders. We preferred to avoid the people in their vans and tents at the main beach and enjoyed very much to have our own private spot for camping and snorkeling! But to be polite for possible bypassers, we didn’t put up camp until sunset, which was no big deal at all today. It was neither hot nor cold nor wet, just pleasant stunning nature and us!
Fylkir had tried to snorkel first time in the shallow dead reef across our “home” at Ben’s BOA in La Paz, and he liked it very much, but today’s snorkeling session was topping even my expectations regarding the quantity, quality, and versatility of the fish we saw! Wonderful BIG ones looking inviting to catch to eat, smaller and smallest ones in lush amounts, sizes, and colors. Fylkir was amazed – but not only him, but I also love snorkeling at the right spots! The coral life was moderate, but we need to have something to top next time…
Besides a guy on a SUP and a young lady climbing the rocks behind us, we had the spot for ourselves and we will fall asleep soon to the gentle lapping water on our beach – no more F…… surf!