Loc: Barra de Potosi
Acc: Hilleberg Allak 2 tent
Dist: 48,2 km
Start: 07:00 End: 17:30
Something was hitting my tent last night, as if some kids threw on purpose a small ball or such on the side where my head is, as I could not make anything out which lies beside it after the hit. But as I did not hear anybody running away or giggling, maybe it was a small branch from the mangrove tree above me. I am sure it was complaining I had to cut two long thin roots away to be able to camp here on this shady spot. I also hit my head on a larger branch yesterday evening after this root massacre…little sins are punished by nature instantly.
At five o’clock, a guy starts to clean up the neighboring tourist boat to my left, and I quickly untie one of my tent lines which I connected to its rail. I did not count on this a bit rotten boat planning to go out at all! But no problems, I also start to pack and have a small nice conversation with the disturber of my early morning hours.
When I am ready to leave, I wait patiently again until the reef break is fully calm, then the launch is an easy game from this spot. I give it a wide berth, and aim for the tourist hub of Ixtapa/ Zihutanjeo. At least something interesting to watch!
I am nearing the island across Ixtapa, and as expected, on a Sunday morning, the place is packed with weekenders. At least I think it is packed already at about ten o’clock, which is likely not even half full. I glide happily past, my thoughts to stop here for a small snorkeling trip die pretty quickly. Also, the water across the rocks is stirred up from so many boats and people. No place for me to be! Packed with restaurants, beach toys, music and happily shouting people, I leave them to their pleasure.
I know there is a small remote looking reef beach around the next corner, but it is hardly accessible with many rocks and has a bunch of large posters on it, likely telling people about ‘no access’ as it is meant as a wildlife refuge. Also good. I better cut across to the next headland, but dare to squeeze between two islands where my chart shows a green shallow area. It looks like open water to me against the sun, only occasionally a small explosion from a zip line is splashing. The waves from both directions clash in a small clapotis. But coming nearer, it looks harmless and deep enough for me to hurry over without a splash in my face. A big grin follows, I love those little extras! The way around the island would have been also much longer.
But now, the water is lumpy from the waves reflecting on the many cliffs, and it is quite windy – surely from straight into my face. Not really a pleasant paddle to enjoy the cliff closer or to think about strolling into the bays! I am only aiming for the next headland, for the next, and for the last, leaving the cities to my left. I have no plans to stop there, but know a sheltered corner at the next headland. Two large dolphins are my wildlife pleasure of the day. High time my friends show up here!
Thankfully, despite the headwind and the reflecting waves, it looks like the swell is ow and the open coast landing looks everywhere doable, as far as I can see. After the last headland, the sea surface is smoothing also out a bit, a switch on music for the last boring crossing to my night destination. And I see really two whale spouts and a small fin diving! After the two dolphins, this tops the day. Obviously, whales enjoy the warm waters here and the freezing arctic waters alike. Amazing!
When I near the large mountain of my headland spot, I am hoping to find already an accessible beach earlier, but the light color is all big boulders, no way to land or to camp. I realize I have to hit the very last corner, which turns out to be a broad confused river mouth with low breakers into every direction. Nothing really scary, rather fun, although I am taking all safety measurements. Two guys are walking in the shallows upfront me, and to my left, a big weekend holiday scenery is unfolding. No way anywhere a place to stop or even camp. I could stay out of this place and turn left to an open looking beach, but my curiosity draws my into the inlet. Turning calmly to my right, I end up on a tiny mangrove beach sheltered from the holiday makers, where about three or four boats are parking. I saw a building from the other side which looked uninhabited, so I check out the camping options. A small flat spot will do, after I cleaned it from glass and sharp rocks.
It is the first time on this section I am stealth camping, and all evening, fishermen drive by in motorboats, in row boast and walking in the shallows, they notice me, but no one disturbs me more than necessary. Still, I am feeling a bit vulnerable here, and form in my head a plan what to do and say if anyone is investigating closer. But finally, when the three-quarter bright moon sets, people stop actions and I have my peace. In the early morning hours, temperatures are even getting friendly to sleep, and I am happy for my thin blanket!