Loc: Kulukak Point
Acc: Hilleberg Keron 4 tent
Dist: 39,7 km
Start: 09:45 End: 16:45
Fylkir had a bit of a motivational crisis this morning, as it was raining and not looking extremely inviting outside. He grumbled something like “What am I doing here…?” and complained about everything ahead… We turned around in our cozy bedding once more, but when he needed to go outside as nature called, he pondered to either get wet clothing in the rain or wet bare skin…he opted for the latter. The butt naked man in gumboots doing his business in the rain overlooking the dead calm sea woke up to his Icelandic genes and came smiling back into the tent, happy to keep on going. This was a clear case of “reconnecting to nature”…and I happily dried his wet back with his towel as a luxury service. Life is not too bad!
Forecasted was strong easterly wind, and we only gave it a quick thought to cross 45 km straight over to the Round or Black Island, as this would be quite boring. We were quite sheltered on our coast going northwest, and better a quite monotonous beach than no land to watch. The sea was calm, and the wind pushed us offshore along. Like yesterday evening, we saw another whale spout of a rather smaller guy very close to the coast. He did his business without being bothered by us, about ten meters off the quite steep beach. Amazing! He showed his back and fin, but no fluke on diving, as he obviously could not dive very deep here.
Some hours later, we found the same species as a very very dead carcass, eaten by thousands of flies. Some bear poop was close by, but if I’d be a bear, I’d stay away from this stinky mass of a beautiful animal it has been. That’s nature…
We ate our lunch in some high grass overlooking the wetland behind us and got fooled again and again by brown lumps turning out to be either another one of those wading bird couples looking like herons or cranes or by rusty barrels or logs or piles of weed. No bear to see yet…hmmmmmmmm….
We were chasing a large flock of seagulls ahead of us almost all day. They flew up when we came close, moved about five hundred meters ahead and rested again – until we caught up again and the same thing repeated. Not very clever seagulls or they found this game entertaining.
Across some wetland with a lake, a bunch of eider ducks looked inviting for dinner. We should have landed, and checked if we could catch some…if they’d have fallen into the water after shooting, we would at least still be in a dry suit to get them…next time!
The mountains were lurking in the background, and we were looking forward all day to get away from this endless long flat beach. But it provided at least easy landing everywhere, and a wonderful view over the wetland behind.
Now the mountains…we crossed over a small bay to our beach we chose for the night, with the easterly wind kicking fully in to whip up the sea ahead of us. Maybe we should have better kept on sneaking along the coast? The first rocky headland made quite intimidating noises with the waves crashing against it, we are not used any more to roughish water! the bay we chose was anything than sheltered in this wind, I should have given it a second thought. But with 60 cm of seas, the surf rolling in on the wide sandy shallow beach was low. Still, it was surf! And there was one of the odd unexpected waves which surfed Fylkr unintentionally up to 21,2 km/h…I saw him speeding past me laying fully on his back deck and balancing with the paddle. A few seconds later, I got caught the same wave, and just took care I did not get surfed into my man’s kayak! The rest of the waves were no problem. Despite the tide here is with 2,5 m much lower than on our start with 7 meters, this beach is so shallow that on mid-tide we had still to walk about 500 m to the gravel beach.
It had a wonderful river pool in a gravel bed, with outflow through the gravel bar. Crystal clear water made us dumping the last tanned water we had, also not to have to carry the bags over the 500 m tidal flat. It was air wash time, and we both rinsed our paddling clothing. Thank goodness, the pool was quite deep cut into the gravel beach in wind shelter, as the gusts tonight exceed easily 30 knots of wind. We have a hard time to secure our tent! Fylkir dared the first night not to put up our fence, as it would be quite likely self-ignite or not at all when the fence poles and the straps holding them are not stuck in the gravel solidly. It should be all good here, nothing exciting for a bear here on this beach or in our tent!