Thu 11/07-2019 Day 412

Pos: 60.6239,-165.1779

Loc: Nelson Island north
Acc: Hilleberg Keron 4 tent
Dist: 31,8 km
Start: 08:25 End: 15:30

Two days of rest, or rather one real rest day after the 90+ km stretch recovered us well, mentally and physically to get going again. Fylkir was proud of his achievement, is freshly motivated, and I am happy to have (mostly) no grumpy man any more… I am very much more even-mood, and when things become a bit uncomfortable or challenging, I am rather smiling and laughing and singing! And I am also very forgiving if someone doesn’t find the right words or tone in stress-mode.

I just had to add a small story from the local guy on the quad bike yesterday, when Fylkir gave him a bag of Icelandic dried (cod) fish, manufactured by his Icelandic cousin. His only comment was: “It doesn’t look like fish!”…well, that’s what all his friends say about this proud Icelandic product…and it smells like…well…FISH. But I have also eaten it (once…), with a lot of butter like it was supposed to be eaten. But the dried salmon stripes we got from three different people by now look, smell and taste very different…

We just managed to pack our kayaks, when a black grumbling cloud bank in the east released his thunder and lightning with a fat rain squall on us. Today was a beach-hugging day, under high towering cliff formations, impressive and unique, with many landslides and rocks on the beaches. I was up to count and locate on my GPS the carcasses, one seal, one whale, and nine walrus, but without finding any new tusk. Too many people scanning the beaches here…though one of the walrus had a fresh bloodstream running down, likely where the local guy yesterday took his tusk.

I landed a few times to take some better pictures for my “horror” album of carcasses. We had some shallow water when we crossed the bay of Tununak, but we had still a meter depth to float on one hour before low tide, no problems. The same in the next bay, shallow water, but likely not falling dry upfront the steep gravel beach. We stopped about ten kilometers earlier, which would add only 5 km to our crossing the next day, landing in a river mouth of now 5 km away. A good deal. We are not sure if we are paddling tomorrow, as the headwind might be better the other day. We’ll see what Karel, my weatherman will text me soon!