Pos: Pos: 15.8861,-95.7800
Loc: Morro Ayuta
Acc: Hilleberg Allak 2 tent
Dist: 42,9 km
Start: 07:30 End: 15:50
Heriberto is so nice to bring us twenty-liter bottle of water, as my ladies decided they like to paddle today with me and back for half a day to a place where they think they can meet their pick up.And they did not pack enough water for thatToday is much nicer paddling with Rebeca and Ivalu in the light almost empty double – we finally paddle ‘together’, side by side, within communcation distance! My kayak weight stays almost the same or is even heavier as I loaded new food and water, but the double takes at least three of my water bags. Rebeca finally has a lot of questions I am happy to answer, especially the ladie’s bathroom needs. We all feel the swell has increased a bit, paddling behind any rocks is no option today at all. Not that there are so many also. The most beautiful area was yesterday south of Huatulco, now we pass a few bays with hotels, and then hop from headland to headland. It is always the same game – behind the headland, landing looks doable, then the swell increases to a nasty break until we round the next headland. Some points give better shelter than others, and at the firs tones with houses, barely twenty kilometers paddled, the ladies already contemplate to stop for their pick up. Okay…but you need to pass on my three water bags and land yourself, I like to keep on paddling! Despite it is looking quite doable, I am not keen to land in the middle of the day when it is not very easy like yesterday. They contemplate, and then keep on going with me to the dominant point into Bahia Grande as planned, in about forty kilometers distance. Just behind the easy landing option, the swell increases again, back down behind the next point, and so on.
We thoroughly enjoy the Manta rays jumping today in a lush amount here and there, performing double and triple flips to land with a noisy splash on their bellies or backs, it does not matter, as long it is noisy and likely attracts females. We also see lot of sleeping ones, floating close under the surface with both tips of their fins sticking out of the water. After about thirty kilometers, we think it is time for a music boost. This time, I get into the groove, and if my regular travel speed is between five and six kilometers per hour, we now fly along side by side for over an hour with seven, eight and for half an hour even nine and ten kilometers per hour! Well, there must have been a current in favor? But I also believe, the ladies in their light double kayak have been working a tad bit harder…It was fun!
When we reach the big headland, the sea is quite lumpy around this dominat point, but we all sit firmly in our kayaks and just punch through in the hope the big point gives some calm sea and an easy landing.
Well…calm seas finally after we leave the rollers just around the corner behind us. No way to land just behind the light house point were I was hoping for a sheltered corner. The water behind this corner creates a submerged outflow and shallow seas with low but long rolling breakers. No place for us. We rather aim for the boat landing corner where there is only one dumper at the steeper shore. With good timing, this is much easier and safer to land. I instruct the ladies to free their paddles from the leashes, and how I would signal them in for a good timing. When I slowly approach, the beach is steeper than I was hoping for, but I make it in just fine. Only the dragging of the kayak up the beach is tough, maybe I should have quickly partly unloaded, but I do it step after step, digging my heels firmly into the sand and pulling on the cockpit rim while straddling my kayak and facing backwards. Finally, I get it over the ledge and out of the surge!
I wave the ladies in, their timing is also perfect, and dragging their kayak uphill, I can do with just one hand. We make camp under a shady palm tree roof just beside a lot of fishing boats. But no one is here!
I am just about to settle clean and dry into my tent, while Rebeca applies some of my nappy rash cream on some bad looking sores on her sides of the upper body. She is standing there freshly showered and in underwear, wrapped in her large towel, wen she discovers a turtle nest where the hatchlings just emerge out of the depths of the sand! What a view! So far, just at the end of the last Mexican section this spring, I have enjoyed seeing turtles laying their eggs on the beach, and back in Australia, I also discovered some freshly hatched turtle babies at night on a beach on an island of the great barrier reef. But now, I can observe the whole sandy hole pumping like a human woman giving berth to a single baby in an effort of dozens of small turtle babies emerging from the depths of their sandy nest! First a few, then dozens of heads come out of the sand, looking like one of those multi-headed dragons from a fairy tale, and whole bodies crawl over each other in their effort to finally reach the open sea! The three of us watch fascinated, and cannot help but playing ‘midwife’ to make them emerging faster and easier. Rebeca guides the crawling baby-turtles to the sea with hand signals and talking, so sweet! I rather grab a few with my hands and put them back close to the water. We also keep the stray dogs away and hope, many if not all of the babies reach their new ‘home’ in the water! Such a sweet wandering or rather migration of baby turtles!
But I also find already a few dead ones on the beach which were too weak coming from other nests. We probably spend all the last day light with the turtle babies, taking endless pictures, until I have enough as I need to do my office work!
I am still writing the update from yesterday, when at around nine o’clock, the fishermen become busy in darkness! Maybe two or three dozen headlamps work hard with stretching nets and feeding it into three boats, just about fifty meters from our tents. Their voices are thankfully swallowed by the surf, but makes the scenery to watch even more eerie. Their strong headlamps shine again and again on our tents, intentionally or unintentionally, and there is no good sleep possible anytime soon. I watch the lights buzzing around, more or less shining also on the boats and nets sitting close to the water’s edge They are quite bold to launch their heavy boats in total darkness with this dumper! But they must know what they do, I hear engines howling, and boats are setting off, coming back around three at night. Again, dozens of headlamps shine around and on our tents while the guys sort the catch and pull up the boats. It is their spot here! But such a night effort I have hardly been watching.
I also watch kids collecting the at night even more busy emerging form their various nests spots baby turtles! they throw them in a large box, always two kids are collecting the animals. Will they make a good turtle soup – or do they also help them to get to the water? I think the latter, as I see them after a while at the water’s edge. Thank goodness! They even dig deep into the sand to find the last baby, also very close to our tents. I am hoping we have not set up on a nest…Rebeca confirms next morning the kids did dump their boxes of endless amounts of baby turtles into the sea, she has also been out at night to help them. Well, she is not supposed to paddle again tomorrow, as they will get a pick up right from this spot here.