Pos: Pos: 16.1818,-95.1567
Loc: Salina Cruz
Acc: Hilleberg Allak 2 tent
Dist: 34,3 km
Start: 07:150 End: 14:05
I forgot to mention on my animal’s day yesterday the lush amount of dense fish swarms everywhere. It sounds like a heavy rainfall when they approach – thousands of fish on one spot close to the surface!
I have a wonderful rest and launch with no problems on a good lull. I will reach Salina Cruz today! This corner on the top left of the wide Golfo de Tehuantepec is the closest to the Atlantic, and north winds funnel strongly wen they blow. Amazingly, just hundredfifty kilometers to the east at Puerto Aristo, the wind forecast is already a fully different one, and thankfully the nasty strong northern blow starts only on Sunday, and is quite mellow in Perto Aristo where I plan to be by Saturday. I am lucky to escape this unfriendly weather pattern! With a bit of good luck that the weather stays, I can cover the two hundred kilometers from Puerto Aristo to Puerto Chiapas close to the Guatemala border in five days of forty normal daily kilometers. I am hoping the surf does not bother me too much, but the swell forecast and even the tide change is in my favor to be low in the evening. Yesterday, I was to land just an hour before high tide – the roughest time of the day.
Runding Punta Chipehua with the huge sand dune is still a bit lumpy despite the wind is low. I cut across all bays today, wave at the many daytime fishermen in the wide Bahia de Chipehua fishing around a small reef in the southern end, and them aim straight to the Cerro Morro with the last small bay in the Golf, Bahia Ventosa where I like to land.
Three large ships are waiting anchored offshore to be loaded or unloaded at the port of Salina Cruz, and a tug boat buzzes between them I am for a while not sure if the tug boat is to move another large ship at a first dock, but it drives off it without it in tow. I can pass the harbor area with no problems, watched by a small official boat with a flash light and a diver in the water. But they do not bother me. The wind is nicely pushing, but the reflecting seas from the many breakwaters and the Cerro Morro makes things a bit lumpy and I am happy to finally reach Bahia Ventosa. Does this sound like ‘the windy bay’? It looks like some nasty wave has trashed quite some coastline here, almost a tsunami-scenery. I land at the bar to the lagoon were I see some fishing boats, but none of them have an engine attached.
I am scanning suspiciously the sand with few footprints if this bar stays dry at high tide at night, ask some locals and they confirm…should I believe them? I put my tent as close to te boats and palapas as possible, and hope this will do it. At least I have good internet here, can check the tide times and see high tide is at six, and next morning at six-thirty, it is even twenty centimeters higher. Well…I decide to wait it out, see the crashing waves gaining strength closer to high tide, but only at clock six one or two reach my tent and run lightly underneath. If next morning would not be higher, I would say this is it, but I like to sleep better and quickly move the tent to a slight bit higher spot which is close to the bathroom of a palapa. Oh well…the firy chimney in the industrial area behind the lagoon is more scary and sounds like a dragon. The biggest high tide wave throw themselves at the lagoon bar with an earthquake feeling, although the break is not too bad, just the sand bar is kind of floating and accordingly shaking.
Some long-haired surfer-beach-bums from the USA and Canada ask me if I found some surf break further north? I hope not, and I came from the south, sorry. I spend some time to mark new waypoints along the unspectacular coast until Puerto Chiapas, but it is good to know where to find people, just in case. My satellite maps have no names on it, and I am not sure if I find internet along the coast. I will have a rest day in Puerto Arista, but Rebeca will visit me with some friends and brings me a twenty-liters jar of fresh water, and I am happy to have at least that work done. She is also so nice to pick me up wherever I will finish until December 18th – likely in Puerto Chiapas as I was hoping for!