Wed 24/11-2021 Day 629

Pos: 16.6337,-99.2284
Loc: Boca de Rio
Acc: Hilleberg Allak 2 tent
Dist: 34,0 km
Start: 10:20 End: 16:40

Last evening, right before sunset five thrownet-fishing guys and a women come by my tent for a friendly chat. So far, I have only encountered friendly people along the Mexican coast who admire what I am doing! I even get out of my tent for a nice longer chat. They ask me to go and camp with them in their nearby village, and maybe I should have done the effort…but when I am settled, I usually do not move.
After darkness at seven-thirty, I just had my first small nap and briefly woke again still with my e-book in my hand, I sit up. Suddenly, I realize a slim figure is standing to the left side of my tent! He is only five meters away, way too close for my comfort zone. What the heck! I see his narrow silhouette in the moonless darkness, and he reminds me instantly to the slim very dark-skinned guy named Santiago I talked to after my first landing. I make no noise but suddenly flash on him with my strong torch. I can see he is wearing only a small piece of a tight underwear…you do not dare to…!
In my bright torch beam light, he slowly and silently walks away out of my sight, but comes back pretty soon to the edge of the sandy ledge where I put up my tent, this time a slight bit more away. I sit upright in my little tent-prison-shelter, all alarm antennas up and still silently watching, an go through my options. As he is not wearing much, I assume (and hope) there is also not a knife or machete hidden somewhere, but who knows…I keep my own knife on my belt, put on my headlamp, and keep my sharp noisy whistle handy. After a while, I decide to repeat the flashlight game, and give him a brief shout to “FUCK OFF!” Not sure if he understands what I was shouting in English, but I think my tone of voice was not to misunderstand.
He again walks aways, just to come back again and to start – silently singing (or praying?) – and dancing! Just eight meters away from my left tent door! WTF! What was this meant to be? His slow movements look like kind of Tai-Chi and are repeating themselves quickly, his tone of voice is monotonous, but I can hear him. Is he doing a love-dance to impress me, or kind of a voodoo-ceremony? His arms slide also again and again over his amost naked body, but thank goodness not in the naughty way. I can also not see his thin pants bulging in his silhouette, although he is facing with his back mostly to the sea. Ok…I quickly think this guy must either be mad, under drugs, or is performing some religious voodoo ceremony here – but why so close to my tent? None of the options let me be comfortable…
I am still highly alert, and do not keep my eys away from this strange figure dancing under the night sky. Maybe he wants the moon to rise? Or some ghostst to appear? No idea. Suddenly, a very brief but strong earthquake happens, like a submerged explosion. I have encountered small earthquakes before on many places on the world, so I am sure this did not happen out of the voodoo power of my dancing neighbor, but is just a weird coincidence. In the far distance, I see occasionally the light of some other strong flashlight, likely from some thrownet fishermen who also do this job at night. I somehow hope they would be moving closer and chase this strange guy away…
And yes, out of the dark nothing, suddenly one of them appears beside my voodoo dancing neigbor, and starts talking to him. He stops his movements, but in their voices, I can not hear any discussion or anger, and I am hoping they are talking something like: ”Hey, Santiago, buddy, is this again one of your dancing nights? But why do you need to dance here so close to the tent of this brave women? She needs her rest! And why do you not have more clothes on, she might be scared?” The fisherman very briefly shines on my tent, and I am not sure if he sees me sitting upright. I can see in his next brief flash he is pretty strong, and has a backpack on. I would trust this guy more to help me just in case this crazy guy tries to bother me in any way…
Eventually, he walks away, and crazy Santiago continuous his ritual dance and monotonuous singing again…ok, he seems to be a harmless idiot as the fisherman saw no need to chase him away. Suddenly, it comes to my mind that on this campspot here, the sand was quite stirred up with an unusual lot of footprints. Maybe he is dancing here every night, and I am occupying ‘his’ ceremonial place? I like to believe in this, let him do what he is doing, and slowly lay back again, still fully armed. At least he stays always in the same distance with his weird performance.
At eleven-thirty, I probably slept already for an hour, the same strong-looking fisherman with his flashlight comes back, and they are talking again in normal tone. Finally, crazy Santiago walks to the right of my tent, puts on his regular wide shorts where he obviously has dropped them earlier on – and continues dancing and singing, now a bit louder and more modern-sounding tunes! He has quite some energy, as he is doing this now for over four hours, and even the rising moon at ten o’clock does not satisfy him!
But dancing with beach shorts on seems not to be his fancy, and finally, he decides to go home. Thank goodness – and please stay away for the rest of the night!
I can catch about five hours of sleep, before I wake in the hope of an early launch. But also this beach section develops on the morning high high tide a nasty break and an absolute confused mess of criss cross waves from all sides over the shallow sandbanks. No way to lauch safe now, I will have to wait like on the other beach.
I pack, get ready, and a small nap on my kayak. One guy on a horse stops by, and at close to ten o’clock, two strong-looking thrownet-fishermen. One of them could have been the person with the flashlight from last night, as I think he was asking me how I slept, and that I should have continued t sleep for a while inside my tent instead of on my kayak.
As ten o’clock was my estimated launching time, I am contemplating to ask them for launching help – but do not. They wish me a good trip, and I keep on watching the waves criss-crossing upfront my beach. But it does not take long, and I decide it is time to leave!
Unfortunately, on the first try getting my heavy kayak close to the water’s edge, it is ripped out of my hands, rolls around and up the beach, while the cockpit fills with sandy water. FUCK! This would not have happened if the two guys would have helped me…stubborn woman…
I empty y kayak, reposition, catch my breath and start over again, this time pretty good on a calm shore break. I even see this diagonal gap is still open!I rush out, and am amazed I am at least this morning blesses with a somehow smooth launch. I ahhily wavt to the two guys fishing further down the beach, and relax.
Lot of Manta Rays are juming today, and a handful of single- and double turtles. The surf looks all around low tide at about one o’clock very easy, but today, I do not like to land premature! I listen to a new audio-book, and keep up my rhythm.
Behind the lumpy waters of a rivermouth, a calm spt is lurking, but too early, it is only three o’clock…I see houses of a small holiday village in the distance – this will be my landing spot! I finally fancy to camp among people than on remote beaches as I usually prefer…
I also think, there must be somehow a calmer landing upront the village…? I make it in just fine, but realazie a VERY steep beach behind a thankfully calm soup zone. Ok…I land fine, but kind of fall out of my boat and the cockpit fills with water. Thankfully, a guy comes down the steep ledge and helps me to drag my kayak up out of the danger zone. Mor epeople come down, I am the sensation of the viallge. All good! They are all willing to help dragging my kayak up after I emptied the cockpit. I should have not agreed to this without unloading!
One guy is unlucky and rips one of the fittings of my deck, the one which holds also my paddle under a bungee. Oh well, my fault to let them grab where they feel like! But the kayak is up the steep beach. I give a small ‘speech’ to introduce myself to the probably now fifty people around me and my kayak, it feels like some of my South American landings. I better unload now, and they point me to a shady area under one of those palm tree roofs. A good spot, I set up my tent under all their eyes and let all my bags quickly disappear.
Next is the repair of the fitting. I look into my options, glueing, replacing, fixing…and after a few tries, I can unscrew the old piece, squeeze with some plyers the ripped-off inner metal piece back into place into the rubbery top, and screw it back into place. I also have to sew a loop on my tent, all under the supervision of the curious village kids.
But now, the show is over! I make stripping and sleeping movings, disappear into my tent, and the theatre curtain falls by zipping it off fully. It takes a while, but as there is not much more to see, all people and finally the kids slowly but surely diappear. Thankfully, I am used to live inside my tent, have everything I need, and my bathroom box handy. I need my rest and privacy, especially after the last two nights with disturbed sleep!