Loc: Bahia San Basilio
Acc: Hilleberg Keron 4 tent
Dist: 28,9 km
Start: 06:35 End: 12:45
No more car visitors that afternoon, but a freezing cold night after the sunny warm sheltered corner yesterday!
Lush fish swarms were jumping around us already before sunrise, and we figured the sun was just ten seconds late to the sunrise time 7.02 am on my GPS. A reliable partner…I stripped my jacket already at 7.45 am, whereas Elizabeth stayed in Arctic mode until 10 am! I was close to asking her if she had packed enough medicine against heatstroke…
Soon the dolphin show of the day started! We encountered 7 times large schools of dolphins quite close to us, from estimated hundred animals on the first encounter down to three on the last show. That’s how I was envisioning Baja! A large turtle floated upfront us but dived down shy as usual before one can take pictures.
At Mangles Point, two wonderful caves invited us to glide inside. The first had a large opening once one was inside, the second one offered an eerie sounding smaller hole where the small waves broke with some thundering sound. So nice…
We saw our first Blue-footed Boobie sitting hidden on a rock between pelicans, and later a whole swarm of them flying off a cliff. I saw those funny birds already in Peru, doing a mating dance with presenting their pretty blue feet to their selected spouse.
Behind Mercenarios Point, another Baja California wonder started. From our end, the sun was shining bright on a rugged line of rocks, littered with sleepy pelicans and just to the left on a large snow-white cliff. Another school of dolphins played leisurely around them. Just a stunning view! A line of white sandy beaches rounded San Juanico Cove after the rugged point, just like paradise – minus eight yachts, a line of campers, a few boats driving tourists around and a really fancy large house…
We landed on one of the white sandy beaches for a pee, and I spotted a cave that looked like it had a high ceiling behind a very low tunnel. Some small paws of some furry critters went in and out – there must be space for me also? I crawled in on my elbows and dragged my body behind until I could stand up. Not much to see inside, despite some light cam in from the side. It turned out I could exit through a very narrow opening, and I was slim enough to just get out – sandy allover…but with a smile on my face!
We kept on strolling along the white beaches, but it was too early for lunch and for camping anyway. We left some Hobie pedaling boat and snorkelers behind us, passed another boat dumping more snorkelers, and the Mexican captain looked at us likely a bit strange when we passed him paddling into some lumpy reflecting waves around the headland. Yes, we know what we are doing…
It turned out paddling along the reflecting waves of the steep cliffs is a bit like riding one of those artificial bulls trying to shake you off, but it was no problem for Elizabeth and me to sit firmly in the saddles of our sea-worthy horses. We passed another wonderful white sandy beach facing north, and then a small fishing village on the start of a gravel beach with eight boats and a bunch of satellite dishes on the houses. We didn’t want to land here and were aiming deeper into the bay where the reflecting waves got less, but the sea stayed a bit lumpy. Our goal to reach a headland with a shiny white beach (or cliff?) in about 12 km proved to be a bit ambitious in the increasing headwind close to 20 knots with many white caps, and we decided to land in the deepest spot of the bay on some rocky, but halfway surf free gravel beach. It was about jumping out early enough to give the kayak a smooth landing on the moderate-sized gravel. All went well, and we made camp on a sandy spot of some arroyo.
Another long afternoon to spend in strong headwinds, but it was time to finish the Bronco ride along the coast! We made a walk ahead to some spit in the distance, but landing would have been calm, but much worse regarding the rock size. So our choice to land was perfect.