Loc: old fish camp beach
Acc: Hilleberg Keron 4 tent
Dist: 38,6 km
Start: 07:05 End: 15:35
Elizabeth was out for dinner yesterday with our hosts and came back late – accordingly, she was a bit it tired when I woke her this morning
We had to do some tricky loading on the docks, and before the many and heavy water bags came into the kayaks, we lifted the boats into the water. Finally, we waved our hosts Walt and Linda plus two other sailors goodbye, and off we were.
The way along the shoreline of Santa Rosalia was not really eye candy, we saw lots of old industrial mining constructions but also an active mining area where they were just loading a huge ship with some white sandy looking powder – gypsum? The whole ship was more or less disappeared in a huge dust cloud, and we kept our distance.
But soon, we hit the pure nature coast again around some old volcano. So many new rock formations and different quality rocks! When we turned around a corner, a wide-open cave entrance with a huge hole in the roof opened up, an amazing sight of itself. But for me, I was more interested in the smaller dark hole in the backside Elizabeth instantly said that would be nothing for her claustrophobic feeling, she’ll stay out…
I slowly ducked in the cave entrance, and saw quickly there was plenty of space to the roof and to the sides, plus it had finally calm water. I pulled out my strong waterproof diving aka caving lamp, held it in my mouth, and slowly kept on paddling into the deeper and deeper tunnel cave. This is was different from most of the rest of the coats with its peanut rocks stuck in some crumbly dough. This stone was solid, with no crabs and nothing yucky along the walls and ceiling.
The tunnel turned right, my lamp was bright enough to see well. I was sensing an exit, and was just waiting for a light showing up at the end of the long bent tunnel…I turned more right…and there it was, the exit! Pretty narrow and low, but with the paddle stuck under the deck bungees and some hand railing and ducking down, it was easy. Still very exciting! The tunnel ended actually up inside the main entrance area, and I released a loud “yahoo” to let also Elizabeth know I’m ok. She was meanwhile still outside and looked rather to the right, expecting me to emerge somewhere else than in this main tunnel entrance.
I told her if she’ll go through this one, she’ll get the five-star cave tunnel award She finally decided to go despite her claustrophobic feelings, brave girl! But after my description, it didn’t feel too scary for her and it was actually not dangerous at all and plenty of space for our kayaks. She made it fine, and was proud of herself having paddled through this long tunnel!
The next highlight of the day was waiting just around the corner. We had seen bird spaces in rocks before were not only white shitty areas were running down the rocks, but the bird poof piled up on smaller stalagmites. Twice we had seen that natural phenomenon on other cliffs, with maybe 20-30 piles of about maybe 30 cm maximum height. But those ones we saw here high up in the cliffs were reminding me of Cinderella’s castle! “Only” five major piles, but each over a meter high, somehow combined and beautifully structured. Generations of birds, likely the Blue Footed Boobies, must have been “working” on them. Really amazing and wonderfully beautiful!
A small fishing boat with a diver down on a compressed air tube was likely up to collect shells from the sea ground on the next headland. We waved, but we were too far away to investigate their catch and collection.
We rather kept on strolling along, again and again, different and amazing rock formations and dubbed this section the best exploring day so far. We stopped for lunch on a rocky gravel beach, and landed with some precaution on a suitable camp spot, as it was breezing up quite strongly from the north. But after giving it some observations and more thoughts, we decided to keep on going around the steep cliffs of the volcano, as the headwind was stronger, but the sea very low. It was mostly wind coming down the cliffs, and when we were finally around, the wind was down and the sea dead calm. Glad we kept on going!
A now rather boring section of a rocky beach followed, and we decided to call it a day on a rocky gravel beach with some old remainders of fishing camps. We found plenty of those floating rocks from an old volcano eruption, but also many trash from the old camps. Fish were plenty underwater to see on a brief snorkeling trip, but the rocky sea ground and the little algae-murky water was making things not too exciting to stay longer.
One large whalebone vertebra was now Elizabeth’s outside camp table, one more rib piece to find, but that was it here. with signs of whales, dead or alive…! Some few dolphins today, and as usual plenty of pelicans and other birds. We noticed all birds make some kind of noise “taking” to their neighbors, but pelicans are actually not “talking” at all. Strange!