Loc: Isla Tiburon south
Acc: Hilleberg Keron 4 tent
Dist: 25,8 km
Start: 7:05 End: 12:35
We were well rested for this second-last short paddling day. The sea was slightly up, and the points plus the quite impressive long steep cliffs still accordingly lumpy. But it was better than yesterday’s paddle along the western side of Isla San Esteban. Still, we were looking forward to being back in calmer water in the last wide north east facing bay behind Isla Turners. We stopped at a tiny bay with the typical trash of fishermen’s camps, but it also has a small shrine up the hill with a Jesus statue and many empty candle glasses. Neat, as the crews might pray here for safe seas going out to the islands. people are pretty religious here. We rather thanked for having us taken safely along there already.
From there, it was all dead calm until we saw the last beach on the southern end which I had marked for today’s stop. We could have landed there, but it was steep and rocky gravel and didn’t look too inviting besides the view through the mountain gap to the other side.
We decided to paddle around the corner, as we were also curious how the waters between the island were looking like, and if we could already see Bahia Kino. The remaining distance for the crossing increased by a bit more than a kilometer, but it was worth aiming to two lurking white beaches around the southern tip! Glassy seas, a huge pelican colony, dolphins and two lost sea lions joined our way around the southern spit.
The white beaches turned out to also have fishermen camps, which meant as always trash all over…at least the left beach was not really inviting. What impressed me were the long slim branches with which the fishermen created some kind of a tent frame, to cover the frame with a simple plastic tarp. They take them home and leave the framework – or not. When not, the remainders flatter in the wind, torn to pieces. Torn to pieces also, as those slim branches were – believe it or not – covered allover with thorns! Obviously, there are no other plants or trees giving usable framework branches, and tying them together with some pieces of rope – or clear tape – seems to be working well here. We found about ten tent frames in different styles and ages, and some of them obviously still in use.
A typical fishermen camp here also has HUGE piles of a certain type of mussel with a pink opening looking very female , they seem to be common delicacies here. Thousands and thousands of empty shells everywhere on different smaller or larger piles. Not sure if they have eaten them all by themselves over the years, or collected them diving on the sea ground, pulled the flesh out and sell them later?
We climbed up a hill to a round arch with a great view over the bays. Another smaller cliff hill had another small shrine house in bad shape. Another arch was lurking at its bottom or some pictures. The whole bay was idyllic, would it not be for the allover trash. Mexican fishermen are not thinking really far ahead…
It was Elizabeth’s last camp on this trip, tomorrow we’ll hit the town and meet on the other day my new paddling partner Marg Rees, actually a friend of Elizabeth. See how this goes!