Sun 08/03-2020 Day 498

Pos: 28.1314,-111.2952
Loc: Caleta Venecia
Acc: Hilleberg Keron 4 tent
Dist: 49,4 km
Start: 7:00 End: 16:05

A drizzle-rainy gray day, wiith stronger headwinds in the morning, low in the afternoon. The last section of our long beach was littered with red algae, and it smelled and looked like the whole villages of the area had dumped their toilet water here into the sea. Maybe, maybe not…

Today was bay hopping, and we were mostly hugging the coast. The cliffs all along our track were of the finest in color and formation, and until the last point we were in awe of nature’s creation. We passed the larger fishing village of El Choyudo, a neat place with many boats and houses. Satellite dishes everywhere. A lovely sea lion colony was hiding in a small rocky beach. The next few beaches had still road access, it was Sunday, and local people were out camping and fishing. Like in any other country. We thought we saw very few gringos around the beaches.

A huge massive cliff in bright red iron color impressed us a lot, just the sun shining on it was missing! I had seen many red cliffs, but this was especially bright. A larger trawler fishing boat was just working in the bay, with pelicans and sea gulls allover the riggings. The sea off the many spits was mostly pretty lumpy on today’s wind waves, but inside the bays it was calm. In one wide bay, there were kind of long greenhouses at the end, with a line of fishing shacks upfront.

We paddled bay after bay and point after point, every corner was interesting, and we almost felt like we have an overload of beautiful and impressive cliffs today. Mayn pretty small and remote camp beaches were lurking. The one we picked for lunch had a small dumper ending up in a line of dense sea weed. If we’d had known before…

It was double-mango time today, we simply shopped too many fruits for the distance between Bahia Kino and Marina San Carlos were already our next resupply stop will (have to) be. We estimated five or more days, but things are going so smooth with Marg, that four days will be enough.

A lovely wide bay with many beaches was inviting on all of the small coves, though the last end of Himalyal Bay had houses and campers with cars. We planned to land on the next way around te next headland anyway, to have a reasonable distance left. The last headland topped it all. First, it developed just here some nasty large swell, but Marg sits firmly in her kayak and had no issues at all, thank goodness. Just looking up the towering cliff formations made us dizzy after a long day of lumpy water, around the corned showed kind of a cathedral cave with two large pillars. Nothing to paddle in though, but so gorgeous!

I had marked the first beach after this last headland, but it was not sheltered enough after the swell point. The next very sheltered place was Caleta Chica, but it had plenty of houses and people. So one more point to turn around, I had marked Caleta Venecia as having no houses, but road access. Thank goodness, there was another small inaccessible beach to the left, which was even more protected. Just perfect for us!

In the adventure hour, we climbed over the rocks to the main steep dumper beach, and we were almost stumbling into fresh cow pads. Two cows were not far away on the gravel road. Finally I saw some of the beast where in other places we only found their droppings! Well, cows in general are nothing special, but those were free running in the small valley, and their voices were shouting across the vegetation and echoed at the cliffs. We followed the gravel path for a while, when suddenly a whole coyote family joined into the cow concert. An eerie feeling on our cow safari! Still we knew there were people around the next bay, but the whole scenery felt wild. So nice!