Loc: behind Yavaros
Acc: Hilleberg Keron 4 tent
Dist: 46,0 km
Start: 6:55 End: 16:00
Well rested, we were ready to launch into a dead calm sea – but on high tide with a break on some swell which was nasty at times. But the other times, it was also dead calm. So timing on launching was everything. It has been a warm, but humid feeling night, despite the tent was dry in the morning. Dark low hanging clouds made the atmosphere kind of uninviting, but the sea behind the break was dead calm. Fishing boats were out, and we saw them also waiting to get over the bar of the river next to us.
We waited with Marg’s boat quite sometime before I helped her launching over the high washing up shore break into a calmish soup zone before the one-line outer break. We pushed in, I pulled her rudder, she got in, closed the deck and now just had to wait there until she could paddle over the outer breaker which was now very low. All good, and I quickly got in behind her in the same lull. We watched the break during breakfast, and lulls were quite long as long as nasty breaking periods. So all was fine with me also on getting out, and on calm water, we paddled far out behind the breaking lines of the river just 500 m downwind. We got organized, including I had to wash out my neoprene socks from sand and shell pieces which got washed inside while standing in the surge holding Marg’s kayak on the bow.
Meanwhile, another fishing boat came out of the river mouth, stopped beside us, and the guys were very surprised to see us dry and fine out here. Actually, the river mouth had more breaker lines and would have been harder to time with our weak human power than a launch from the beach. The motorboats were also waiting inside the river mouth until they sped up over a low breaker.
We saw already a lot of dolphins out there before launching, and were escorted for full two hours by a school of about thirty large happy animals! What a pleasant paddling time! We passed the easy-looking and non-breaking river mouth of Rio Mayo and noticed the swell and break was going down by the minute. Finally, it looked like there was no break at all anymore.
We saw a huge dead something with vultures around and decided to land. Sure, there was still an outer and a shore break, but so low it was not worth worrying about. We found a large, very dead old whale carcass, but with still meat enough on it for the vultures…yuck!
The sea and shore break became even calmer, and after having turned around a 90-degrees corner, we decided to cut across a small bay toward a line of houses of Playa Huatabampito. We stopped before on the beach to have lunch and to climb a dune for a better overview. Quite some cars were driving here on the beach, and it looked like a popular beach place for the locals at their off-time. But – despite a large fenced trash-deposit place, this beach was littered with all kinds of garbage. Piles of bottles in glass and plastic and everything else which contains food for a wonderful weekend out…it seems not to be only the fishermen who forgot to take the garbage home or at least into the even available trash can.
The line of houses looked very similar to Bahia Kino Nuevo, where I paddled with Elizabeth the last day. Holiday houses in all kinds of stages. Fancy and well-maintained ones, ones with many handymen around renovating, or constructing from scratch. Also, fully wrecked houses, which were nothing worth anymore. But no holiday-making people – yet.
When we approached the estuary-entry of Yavaros, we got a bit confused about what came up. A long line of old-fence poles creating a shallow sand area, ending up in an artificial breakwater offshore, littered with thousand pelicans and maybe hundred sea lions. We could have taken the chicken way through the fence poles into unbroken water of the entry, but were curious about the sea lion colony at this strange offshore-breakwater. A boat was also visible there, with people climbing on the rocks. We paddled around this long area, to find the boat close to the rocks with two men and three teenagers cleaning some shells they harvested from the rocks. We said hello and “Buenos tardes”, but no one seemed to be interested in a Spanglish conversation. We decided to keep on addling, straight across the main shallow breaker zone to the other side of the estuary entrance. In other conditions, this would have been a lumpy place, but today, no problem. We rounded a sandbank with thousand more pelicans, found a flashing light on poles in the entrance, and even red and green channel markers offshore. Just when we landed on a dead calm shallow sandy beach, we saw a large trawler going into the entrance. They better follow the channel markers!