Wed 18/03-2020 Day 508

Pos: 26.3970,-109.2525

Loc: before Estero de Agiabampo
Acc: Hilleberg Keron 4 tent
Dist: 42,9 km
Start: 7:05 End: 15:55
We landed yesterday on low tide as always, and with calm water, and we’were really sure we went high enough up the beach to stay dry with the high water at night. But there was one nasty sneaky swell wave developing for some reason so strong that it was crawling straight under our tent!
I was still awake and reading, and could identify the noise and maybe 10 cm wash up on my seaside tent side immediately. Our solid Hilleberg Keron 4 Tent can also withstand some side washes from the sea, and the floor stayed dry while the wave soaked into the sand. No big deal…I have been sitting also on other places the last half an hour of an upcoming high tide with lifting the tent floor on one side, or simply floated in some estuary meadow on top of my sleeping pad for a while when there was no escape
But as it was only 10 pm, and I estimated the high water at midnight. Maybe there might come some more of those rogue waves? We had well space up the beach, and could easily move the tent to have peace. This little incident didn’t really help me sleep better and longer, as my brain was at home with my people and my shops.
From today on, all restaurants, cafés and almost all other locations and shops in Germany were closed until the 19th of April for this nasty virus protection. I can’t do anything from here but just sit it also out like basically anyone else. My and many other people’s economical base will be shaken to the roots. I hope all will be under control soon and people won’t panic more than already now.
The forecast for today was moderate to strong wind in gusts, but thank goodness it stayed calm all day. Quite rainy though, but we have jackets, and without wind, it wasn’t really chilly. So nothing to suffer, besides missing some pushing wind, we are spoiled now
But we had entertainment in viewing a long line of beach villages almost all day. Most of the rather simple houses on the first kilometers of the beach were built too close along a red clay cliff. The cliffs and concrete walls were at least partly eaten by the sea. They got replaced by walls of old car tires trying to protect the leftovers of some fences and house walls on top of them. There were barely any people around trying to repair things, and this long line of houses rather looked like a ghost village. Additionally, the low hanging dark rainy sky and my not really happy mind made me think we’d be survivors of some Apocalyptic disaster. How appropriate these days… 🙁
The next kilometers, the red clay cliffs with thousands of cactus on top changed to some normal beach, but the houses in the village named La Boca were also mostly built too close to the sea and their walls didn’t all survive the sea impact either. The houses became a bit fancier, but before the river in La Boca, things didn’t look much better or more alive than before.
We planned to refill our water bags here, there must be some people around who could help us with this job? We couldn’t make out any shop, just private houses all along the beach. On my satellite images, some “town center” looked most likely located behind the river mouth, and we found right after that place the main center for fishing boats with maybe a hundred boats, plus a bunch of fishing people. Thank goodness, here is some life! The fishermen will likely help us. They seem to be the only people in town, the likely more rich beach house owners might be not yet here in “wintertime”
We landed and talked to some guys, and one of them volunteered to guide me to the local water purification station. Thanks! Marg stayed with the kayaks, while I followed Nacho. Refilling ten of our 4-liter water bags were only ten Pesos. Meanwhile, Marg was explaining to the fishermen how we handle our kayaks Nacho got some good tip from me, and the guys helped us dragging the now again heavy loaded kayaks back into the water.
Houses along the beach got now even fancier, but still no one around besides some handymen and likely housekeepers. The “highlight” was a palace with a pool and green lawn! That must cost some water to maintain the lawn and pool…some other houses also had pools. One was built like an ancient castle, I wonder what kind of kiddy fantasy the house owner was living out here…castles should have the flag of the clan raised on top of the main tower, shouldn’t they? This one had rather a satellite dish
Slowly but surely, the houses got less fancy and less in shape again, and soon we were back on a natural beach. We briefly stopped at some old breakwaters with a line of greenhouses behind and noticed this place was abandoned with many greenhouse roofs flapping in the wind. We decided to have a closer look, and learned the “greenhouses” hadn’t grown veggies or fruit, but rather still contained huge pool-tanks for growing shrimp! This is where they need saltwater from the sea. But we still don’t know what they did with the sea-water irrigation system in other places on those open fields…? What needs soil and seawater to grow?
We kept on going until a large freckled carcass trapped on a small sandbank caught our attention. We landed, to find a huge sea lion half peeled off his skin having found his death here. Poor guy, but that’s wildlife!
It kept on raining lightly, and we kept on paddling lightly, escorted again by many dolphins. At some point, we liked to listen to some music of “Riverdance”, and were envisioning the many dolphins now like to do a tap dance on the tip of their tails for us…the many lines of flying pelicans also looked inspired to join in the line dance! Well, at least our minds were relaxing again…
Beach camp was now hopefully high enough on some nice coarse yellow sandy beach if it wouldn’t be feeling like camping on top of a trash dump. Bottles, bottles, bottles everywhere… at least the water was clean. Marg rigged the small tarp for cooking dry outside, as it was still raining. I’d be too lazy for that and would be cooking in the vestibule or inside… She is mostly cooking very delicious meals if it is not mole sauce and beans Thanks!