Mon 02/01-2012 Day 126

Cape Horn Navy officer Ivan Cadiz with Paula, Daniela and little Ivan

Pos: here
Loc: Isla Hornos
Acc: Navy Station
Dist: 0 km

A rainy and VERY windy day, 60-80 knots, in a safe and warm and dry house…I have slept as well as last night, not having to worry about the dangers of Isla Deceit any more. Great recovery for body and soul and stomach! I’ve got the small crew room with two bunk beds for myself, and the only danger there is to fall off the top bed…

The staircase to the albatros monument
Me and myself with the albatros

The view just goes down to the south coast of Isla Hornos, and on to the world famous Albatros monument. Nice and strange feeling at the same time, to be at the “end of the world”… I can see the waves down there at the bay before the “real” Cape Horn…well,   what you think you can see from the top of the cliffs through a window.

The "real" Cape Horn is to the right of the monument across the bay

I checked again the forecast – tomorrow, Tuesday, is still fine to circumnavigate Isla Hornos and the “real” Cape Horn, but I don’t know what time I can start yet. The wind is early morning about 18-20 knots south west, then turning west, decreasing during the day to nothing. But this may change again when I’ll check tomorrow early morning…

The crew of the Russian Yacht "Scorpius" inside the old light house

To have an early start, I may paddle better anti-clockwise, which is a bit longer than clockwise, where I could leave out the paddle along the northern coast of Isa Hornos. Going anti-clockwise, I have shelter until the north west point of Isla Hornos, and get a bit of help from the wind along the south coast, with decreasing winds and related sea state.

Sergey Nizovtsev, captain of the big Russian Yacht "Scorpius", sailing around the world and around the poles

Going clockwise, I’d have  around 20 knots south west wind in my face around the eastern cape the, which may be not good for an early start and the south coast in general.

Little Ivam looking at the "Princess" passing by Isla Hornos, a gigantic floating hotel with 2300 guests. No unloading here at Cape Horn, too many people!

Any way, I’ll continue after the circumnavigation of Isla Hornos going north again, through the shelter of the islands on the east side, in probably no wind all day. I’ll be aiming for the Cabo Ross Navy Station on Isla Wollaston, but just in case I won’t make it for whatever reason, Paula supplied me with a bit more food so I don’t have to worry for a while. Thanks, Paula! And thank you and your family for all your hospitality! There are enough bays on the east side of Isla Herschel or Isla Wollaston, to make a safe landing. I even spotted a few refugee huts here and there.

The following days after tomorrow’s good fore cast for the 30 km crossing to Isla Navarino change continuously as well – I simply can not give any prognostic now which day may be possible to cross.

I know that the Chilean Navy will send a boat again from Puerto Williams to escort me across – thanks a lot for that honorable service! I really appreciate it a bit better – well, now, after I experienced myself what is possible here… 🙂

My baby was securely stored at the bottom of the long staircase leading up to the top of the island

In marginal conditions, the huge Navy boat may even give me a bit of a lee from the dangerous west wind…but in the worst case, I simply have to wait a few more days before I can cross.

View to the north, inside the calm landing bay
The red slide is an elevator for supplies, not for tourists...

Once having reached the east coast of Isla Navarino, I’m safe in the lee of the island and of Fjordland in general. How I’m looking forward to be there…

Puala with her home made fresh bread - there is no bakery around the corner here!

You may have noticed I was not able to upload all my pictures in Puerto Williams due to crabby slow satellite internet, there are still lots of days without illustration from Rio Grande to Puerto Williams. I’m hoping to have a good internet connection in Ushuaia. There is satellite internet here on Isla Hornos, but restricted to the Navy’s needs, no face book, no private e-mail…but I can go on windguru and read, but not edit my website.

Cape Horn church
Inside the "Stella Maris", the Cape Horn church

Thank you all for the encouraging comments on my website! Reading all the nice notes, I know I am not alone on this world…and my daily writing is just not blown in the wind…maybe it is helping and motivating one or another kayaker in this world. Your comments are motivating ME a lot! Keep on writing – I’ll do the same…! 🙂

The church with the lighthouse and Navy station on Ilsa Hornos

23 comments on “Mon 02/01-2012 Day 126

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Ann Gales

Freya. My name is Gales. How appropriate for a sea kayaker. And like many other people posting I am so enjoying your posts. It’s wonderful that with modern technology we can share a little of your experiences yet I realise I am in the comfort of my UK home. Anyway am so proud of you. If I can put it that way am so amazed by your ability courage etc. Keep safe and so look forward to reading more. You are an inspiration.

ooh dear freya! .. uffff .. congratulations queen of the seas, everything went as planned was!. the day just the perfect time, with a beautiful sunrise 4:00 a.m., calm seas, light wind on the contrary to this day all my flags were worn with 136 knots of fear and of course we saw you, from my super kitchen to the distance you could see like an ant in the sea:) .. was a pleasure to share your adventure, I was attentive all evening wondering if would the sg. station there .. and you did give you some calories pamela more:) .. cuidate much rest when you can, you know how to handle the situation well .. I know you’ll be your fan now one more in your blog giganteeee a HUG
ivancito sends you much love, daniela, Guffy, hamster, and I ivan ..
pd: danyy says you owe him a mayoness jijiij:) (jokes)


I have read many stories of amazing adventures but none are as gripping and enthralling as yours. Looking for up dates three times a day and thinking of what you must be experiencing even more often. Thank you so much for allowing us to live in your dream.




Mucha suerte en tu aventura desde la costa NW de Spain, desde Galicia y desde el Cabo de Finisterre.

Frances Price

As exciting as it is to read the thrilling portions of your exploits, it is also a relief to know that you are periodically safe, sheltered, and well rested and fed. Fair weather, Freya!

Chuck H.

As Paula shows in this report, one of the great things seen in both this expedition and the Australian circumnavigation is the huge number of really nice and helpful people Freya has encountered. It’s enough to touch the heart of even an old grouch like me!


Thanks goodness you are ok freya I`ve no doubts you´re going to make it trough the cape… we`ll be waiting for you in argentina

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