Pos: here
Loc: southern headland Golfo Nuevo
Acc: tent
Dist: 0 km
Last night, when I was just before sleeping sticking a last time my head out of my tent window, I saw a bright light to the north close to shore on the cliffs…it was no light house, as it would have been on all day and flashing, so I assumed this must be a boat, or a car on top of the cliffs…
I knew there was s track up there, but who was out there at 2 am?
Next morning, I just looked again out of my tent, the first thing I saw was a lonely puppy sniffing on my kayak! Sorry, little thing, this is not your mom…the poor guy was obviously abandoned and alone all day. I shot pics out of my tent window, without disturbing his search…poor little thing…
But at 8.17 am I saw a person on top of the high lime stone cliffs…was he watching me and my tent? A fan following my GPS position? Or just a coincident? Or the Park Ranger from the Peninsula wanting to deliver me a ticket having landed here? Hey, this is out of the park…no idea…good, there was no way down (or up…) the cliffs.
Though later, on a beach walk, I saw an old wire rope for  helping people to climb on a reasonable less steep spot up and down…but I’d not have used that rope! The profile of the cliffs may have changed over times. Still there was quite a fresh foot print on a sticky limestone spot…
I walked further around a few headlands, almost back inside the bay, always the steep unclimbable cliff to the left, and the steep pebble stone beach with enough high and dry areas to camp.
What I was sensing at night, I saw now from the land: The wide reef I had to give a wide berth. And the perfectly correct spot I was landing in the moonlight! Good girl… 🙂
The stony beach was occupied by a few elephant seal clans, and some single ones. I had time all day besides my gear chores to study their family life from the distance – or as close a distance I thought it was reasonable without annoying them. It is actually quite close…about 20 m is ok. They watch you, but don’t make a threatening sound in that vicinity.
All females had puppies, maybe a few weeks old. I had one clan or “harem” close by, with a big strong male being the patriarch. I could watch him quite a while holding his family of 13 females and 13 puppies together! No one was allowed to be too far away, or the big guy came quite rude to the female, pushing her back.
I saw him using the females as pillow for his head, and wrapping his fins around her, like if he’d liked to make love. But the ladies usually made an unwilling sound, as they obviously already had their fresh puppies…and wriggling themselves away from the estimated 500 kg??? and 4 m??? long heavy male. The females are a third of weight and size…no wonder they didn’t really liked to lie under the fat guy! 🙂
When the male erected himself to full size, it was quite impressive! And those sounds…hard to describe for me in English. The whole concert of the clan ranged from the light dog-like barking of the puppies, groaning and moaning of the females, simple farting and burping where you thought you could smell the bad breath from both ends, to the deep roaring sound of the male showing who has the pants on…
It was a bright sunny day, and with this wind direction south west quite sheltered as well. But I knew it was up to 20-25 kn headwinds! So no worries to dry out my gear and to rather study the family life of the elephant seals today! Quite fantastic experience!
91 comments on “Mon 10/10-2011 Day 42”
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das muss toll sein!! Die Natur bietet doch viel. Geniesse es 🙂 Freue mich auf die Bilder
weiterhin alles Gute
Hola freya, te sigo desde el balneario el condor, queria saber si viste a las ballenas francas porque se estan apareando, nosotros las vimos en bahia rosas vi mas de 100 fue impresionante! fantastico! no lo podia creer, te sigo todos los dias me conecto a las 23 horas, se que ya a esa hora tal vez estas descansando pero te inclui en el mesenjer y en el chat de facebook, me encantaria hablar contigo. cuidate. besos.
patricia iturriaga
What an experience the past two days have been for you Freya! Enjoy your rest, and your neighbours, with their rude manners and interesting lifestyle. I saw male elephant seals just once…they are big!!! A suitable reward for the effort you put in getting to that place.
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