Sat 19/01-2013 Day 368

A wild horse family!

Pos: here
Loc: Capitania Chanduy
Acc: tent
Dist: 46,2 km
Start: 6:50 End: 17:40

Estimated landing: Punta Salinas

I had the whole city concert last night – dogs barking, kids crying, people shouting, VHF radio talking, music playing, air condition engines running (not for my tent though…), cars honking and kick starting, roosters crowing in the morning., plus a strong bright light and gasoline smell from the barrels they stored in the backyard…all weighted against a secure camp site with a fresh water shower…but with bad quality sleep. It’s not the Capitanias’ fault – thanks for offering me a safe place to camp! It’s just about me being sensitive after a long day’s paddling to a not relaxing city camp site. I’m just a nature person!

Launch from Playas

The guys were so nice to carry my gear down early in the morning, and I had another go along the coast of Ecuador. This time close to the beach, and what a nice remote beach with dunes! Honestly, I was close to cancelling my next city camping date in the Capitania of Chanduy…but it also kept me going and not going in earlier. Though I was fighting hard today – solid 10-15 knots headwind from wnw plus waves also from that direction in quite some chop. I was crawling along with 4,5 km/h, and all that with mostly a Navy boat close by. They stayed in a reasonable distance out of my sight, nose and ears, I only had to get them also out of my mind to find my own private paddling rhythm and peace.

One of the few better houses at the Cape behind Playas with a lush tropical garden

Not that I want to complain about the escort, no way! We agreed it would be better, as they suspected pirates around, and I was thankful to have them available. I believed in possible pirates for the bay of Guyanquil, after my own strange experience, but here close along the coast?? Very few boats anyway, and all looked like solid friendly fishermen.

Some other of the few better houses at the Cape behind Playas

I would like to paddle again without escort boat tomorrow, like I’m used to! They can come occasionally to say hello if they want to. But to have constantly a boat watching you in your neck, all your actions you take, whether you are paddling, eating, drinking, peeing or poking your nose, feels like BIG BROTHER is watching you.
I will try to save this feeling for the rather dangerous areas after Esmeraldas and on Colombia’s Pacific coast. But I need to paddle for a few more days by myself again in good Ecuador country until it may be really advisable to have an escort boat with a bunch of strong navy men in there!

It must be horrible being a princess, high politician, famous actress or singer who can’t take a step outside at all without body guard…

If there is such an ugly headwind and chop also tomorrow, I may not even like to fight all the way to reach Salinas. We’ll see.

Tonight I was landing at the beach below the Capitania of Chanduy, a small fishing village with many many boats anchoring. The beach was smelling quite fishy, and I was happy to get my boat and gear upstairs with the nice help of the guys. Teniente Andres was greeting me, and they kindly offered me a nice clean room to stay in. Thanks a lot!
But after my shower I rather decided to camp in the back court yard with a bit of a breeze and no mosquitoes inside my tent. I just need fresh air and no bug bites! And I already heard the chicken around me…good morning soon! Or ear plugs.

7 comments on “Sat 19/01-2013 Day 368


Remember a few days ago you waved the beach crowd and felt like the queen passing by in her horse carriage? now it seems you are feeling all the disadvantages of the royal status… lack of privacy and guards escorting you wherever you go! Be patient and endure, it’s for the greater good of your safety, you gotta long trip ahead with lots of nature to look forward to.
take care

Robert Knopel

Salinas will be great for you; after this it will be also safer before the columbian border.
Be safe , abrazos

You are doing a great job here Freya, the local conditions on shore are tiresome as you describe. But hey, it’s all part of the journey. Great that the navy are giving you so much safe support.

Randall Lackey

It must really be hard to deal with the city life on nights that you would really like to rest. I know what you mean about missing sleeping in nature, not downtown,ha.It must really be bothersome to have the guys looking after you so closley, but you know its for your safety. I hope you’ll be able to tune them out and enjoy your days soon.They too, only want to keep you safe and you can’t fault them for that. The Government there must respect what you’re doing much to ensure your safety so thouroughly.I am glad they are for you, as I know you are as well,inside.Stay safe and strong.Safe Paddling. Randall

Frances Price

It is sad that you must be guarded like a prisoner, only because of “bad guys” who are free. Stay safe, Freya; this won’t be forever. Happy paddling!


To be conjoined with what you do not want is suffering and not to be conjoined with what you want is suffering. I live with a rare lung disease called LAM for short. Sometimes I want to push myself and live the life I once had. But now I have to take into consideration how my actions effect others. If i push too much it effects my health and then I am not there for others. So my friends ask me to take care they want me around longer. So it is a balance and appreciation for the life energy that I do have. Soon we will be in Florida and I can be in my kayak again. This brings me so much joy and vitality. When i return home I can share this joy with others. I certainly do not take life for granted. Impermanence is always at my door. So Freya when you are paddling and the Navy is watching after you focus on your task. Know that you are doing this for yourself but also for so many other people, the ocean and other species. In kindness, Karen

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