Sat 22/09-2012 Day 276

Desert mountains, desert beach.

Pos: here
Loc: Caleta Carizalilla
Acc: tent
Dist: 0 km

Estimated landing: Caleta Cifuncho
Estimated starting time: Right after sunrise
Estimated landing time: Well before sunset

The decision this morning was right, when we saw the heavy swell crashing into our last night reasonable looking landing bay. The whole sea was looking different, not inviting at all. We may have been able to paddle out safely in between a small lull, but then…

Even this shed just behind the rocks had a satellite dish...

Once the decision was made, we were zipping our sleeping bags together, and turned around again, enjoyed a bit of more sleep. I was listening during the night to the rising sea, and was already anticipating what was forecast  when we were on Caldera. Not too much of a bad place to have a relaxing day off at the beach, we thought…very few huts and people here, and surely the Navy wouldn’t bother us this far, far away from any reasonable drive way…you may think?

"Modern times" beach shed...

Hahaha, we were laughing our backsides off, when at 5 pm a Navy car really showed up, on what was for them probably a nice “official” weekend trip into the bush. They must have read my website, or they wouldn’t have known we are still here and not to be landing in Caleta Cifuncho today…so what was the reason for this trip? Just to have a reason for a nice trip into the bush? One officer was in uniform, one civilian guy, and a woman, probably his wife…the same old questions, this time by me answered in 2 min, ok, and, YES, WE HAVE A WEBSITE UPDATED WITH THOSE ANSWERS EVERY NIGHT! This is so much more efficient in these days to get your required informations than driving to the spot with three or four people, isn’t it? “Efficiency” seems to be an unknown vocabulary in the Chilean Navy… This was all again? thanks for the nice visit, and bye bye! And we were indulging again into our e-books. I’m glad we were not just sleeping in our zipped together sleeping bags… 🙂

Empty shells of sea urchins

The day had quite low winds, and it was reasonably warm. Nice! Not much sun though. We took two longer walks, one south, one north (where else?), found about 7 huts to the south, and one kind of tarp shelter built into the rocks north. No rain here, so things can be constructed light weight…but despite looking to our standards really, let’s say, a bit “rough built”, believe it or not, most had satellite antennas for TV reception…how are they run? Connected to the car battery? I can’t imagine they have generators especially for those only, if I see the hut qualities…well, priorities are set obviously different.

Drying sea weed in the sun - some already ready made bundles in the background

We saw quite some “fields” of drying sea weed, with some ready tied bundles of the same for transport to where ever, plus many piles of empty sea urchin shells. There must be some money to be made on both? Or are people only living directly of those sea treasures? We loved to watch the rocky pools filling up with fresh water from just another fat breaker, some of them were looking so inviting for a dip! If there wouldn’t be those big fat crabs in all of them probably tweezing any naked butt sitting in there, plus the spiky sea urchins giving some more unpleasant feelings just right there, and a few smaller little fish.

We also repaired the straps on Peter’s helmet the metal connections to the shell, glad we have a bag full of repair goodies for such cases!

The one and only car of the morning was stopping by our tent, when we were just on a walk higher on the coast. We could see them getting out to have a look at our boats, and a few min later they were just driving by us and stopping. Two guys and a kid in the front, one young Indian man sitting on the open back. I gave them my cards, and explained in a few words we were German and Danish…the guy inside was laughing, and pointing at the young Indian man on the back, saying he is also a “Gringo”. The Indian took it with a smile, as this obviously in this case not meant “white man”, but just “foreigner”…

We are looking forward to be back on the water again tomorrow!

5 comments on “Sat 22/09-2012 Day 276

randall lackey

That’s funny that the locals are living in huts and under tarpaulin and wired for T.V.hope you have better weather and waters tommorow.Safe paddling.

Hallo Freya! Ich bin von Eurer Leistung und Ausdauer fasziniert und hoffe das Ihr euer Ziel erreicht. Toll wäre auch, wenn wir irgendwann mal in deinem Blog lesen könnten: “Freya Hoffmeister und Birgit Fischer umrunden den ??? Kontinent”

Viel Glück, Jörg

Ricardo Hoffmann

Hallo Freya u. Peter,
Herzliche Glückwünsche zu Ihrer Reise, Ihre Leistung ist absolut Spitze!
Als Chilene kann ich die Bemühungen unserer Marine gut verstehen: sie gibt sich Mühe u. möchte hilfsbereit sein, damit Sie so gut wie nur möglich über die Runden kommen. Auch für Ihre Sicherheit, vor allem an Land, ist es vorteilhaft, dass Marinepersonal ab und zu bei Ihnen vorbeikommt. Unsere Sicherheit ist, vor allem in grösseren Städten, nicht so gut wie es un lieb wäre! Übrigens, unsere Marine ist durchaus äusserst effizient!
Ich wünsche Ihnen eine gute Fahrt durch unsere schöne u. langgestreckte Nordküste, viel glatte See u. guten Rückenwind!
Ricardo Hoffmann
Concepción, Chile

Frank Foldin


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I have 7 seakayaks and guide expeditions up and down rivers In the Amazon.
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