[pe2-image src=”http://lh4.ggpht.com/-SdYhzuihX_4/VGSjQu-t1OI/AAAAAAAAins/aQA32wAAHqM/s144-c-o/IMG_0533.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage20Brazil3SaoLuisToNatal#6081164904741328098″ caption=”Windblown campsite” type=”image” alt=”IMG_0533.JPG” ]

Highlights: Good speed and distance
Lowlights: It becomes quite stressful in 20+ knots
Launch: Tiny surf
Landing: Through moderate surf ok
Pos: here
Loc: Headland behind Sao Miguel do Costoso
Acc: tent
Dist: 58,4 km
Start: 5:00 End: 14:15

I thought this is going to be an easy day…despite motorbikes and cars driving on my “nature protected” beach until two hours after darkness, the night was ok. Just the usual flying sand going even through the tent mesh I need to have slightly open for ventilation. Just the usual shaking and ripping noise on the tent from the strong wind. And the usual ear open for unwanted people at night.

I launched through mini surf on low tide, and basically could have done nothing and still be gliding along faster with 4-5 km/h than I would have been able to paddle in the other direction. Here the sea is down, just the wind is blowing strong, but not too strong to be comfortably paddling with 6-7 km/h along. One may think if I paddle on average on calm seas with no wind and current maybe 5 km/h, plus I am getting drifted along now by the wind with 4-5 km/h, I will eventually easily paddle here 9-10 km/h, but unfortunately this is not the case. I average now just 6 km/h, which is still good speed.

I was looking forward somehow to turn around the corner north of Touros where the coast is eventually really trending mostly east, this is for me the true “easternmost” corner (although around Joao Pessoa geographically is the easternmost point). I was hoping the surf in general stays down, as the sea is relatively calm now, but I also knew the wind would be breezing up a bit. Can it be too much, with a forecast today up to 20 knots? The answer is quickly obvious – I can paddle, and paddle quickly, but am stressed. Not an exciting and thrilling two hours to surf ride with an empty kayak (or surfski) where you get picked up afterwards, have your shower and enjoy civilization, but 8-10 hours of getting blown along day after day in a 90-kg boat while feeling not to all is 100% under control are becoming quite stressful.. And at the end of the day a windy, sandy, not 100% safe, hot camp is awaiting you for a break…

When I was passing the last village with moored floating fishing boats close to the shore, I spotted in the distance something flying…yes, kites, many of them…I came closer, and the kites became more and more visible, I was eventually counting about 20 or more, sailing perpendicular in for them ideal wind and direction. Out and in, out and in… do they have some kind of race here? I decided to give this spot a wide berth, as I eventually also saw not only the widely visible kite surfers, but also windsurfers doing the same job some beach “lane” further on. Just at much quicker speed…and many more of them, and going further out…oh god, do I really have to paddle that far out to cross maybe only the path of the last few most daring ones going the furthest out? I had better, if one of those guys does not see me, I may be cut in two halves at this speed…

It was an hour before high tide, the wind probably at max well over 20 knots now, and the sea was white allover. I could barely spot some kind of reef break just before the crowd on the water, and many flying kite surfers and windsurfers jumping over the waves. These guys must be good ones…I felt I better approach their lane very carefully, and luckily crossed only path with two wind- and one kite surfer. One guy leisurely greeted with lifting his hand,I barely could lift my hand from the paddle as it would be blown away… that noise of a wind surfer passing you on highest speed almost across your bow is quite amazing…

Eventually I was past those crazy racers, and survived. The wind was so strong now I had to clamp my hands around the paddle shaft where I usually love to open my hands after every stroke. If thing go wrong here…I am hooked to my boat, my paddle is on a leash, but I really don’t like to swim…Fortunately breakers are rare and when they break it’s really low, but an unexpected and unwanted surf down such an unwanted wave with 17-20 km/h is not everyones business…again, read the passage above not being on a short pleasure downwind ride here…

I had marked a nice sheltered headland on my GPS, and was happily looking forward to land soon. At tide turn at 1pm, the wind went down from 20+ knots to maybe still strong 18 knots, but I had enough for today. I want a sheltered corner to land!

I could have had taken it…if it would not be Sunday afternoon, many people loved also my sheltered corner, with noisy music, umbrellas and all the trimmings to have a good beach time…I should have guessed it…It was chasing me a bit further along to find a bit more private spot to camp, the surf just a few hundred meters further doesn’t look too bad here in this bay either? The surf is *always* worse than you think from offshore…I landed all right with some side broach, but looking back and out again I was wondering how I could get out tomorrow here again? Ok, the chance is for lower tide tomorrow early morning, this will work (I hope…).

The main (dirt) road was just behind the dunes, so I had hope no beach drivers would be passing along here…wrong as usual…is there really no private beach spot anywhere???

Putting up tent in the strong wind and flying sand is draining as usual, I am looking forward to relax…or actually, I rather would love to be home…

Tomorrow and Tuesday is a tad bit less wind, then back to the 20 knots…see how it goes.