Sun 03/11-2013 Day 555

My daring narrow camp close to the water's edge on high tide stayed dry!


Back to muddy shallow water

Pos: here
Loc: Last beach at Shell Beach
Acc: tent
Dist: 23,2 km
Start: 5:35 End: 12:30

I was actually tempted to take a rest day at this beautiful camp spot. It was Sunday again, and I had paddled again 6 days…but the forecast was good enough to tackle 20 km to the last sandy beach at Shell Beach, despite my Diarrhea called in again…why? No idea…yesterday it was good. But I had good appetite, ate a good breakfast and felt strong enough.

I launched a bit weird through some confused, but much lower surf than yesterday, got turned backward once, washed almost up the beach again, caught the direction again and was out. The sea was lower than yesterday as forecasted, the wind all day 12-15 knots. I noticed the steep sandy sand beach disappeared in favour of forest again, with muddy shallow water upfront. There was one very long jutting out muddy reef bar I had to paddle around on low tide, at the end a larger fishing boat was anchoring. Four curious guys waved at me, one even set out in a smaller boat to have a closer look. Not sure what they’d have done if I’d be not a woman? Still having pirate fantasies…

Local camp roof against the wind. The horizontal pole will hold some tarp against the rain


The muddy reef spit was probably 3-4 km long, amazingly sticking out from one last sandy small beach with two real houses on it.
My beach position I knew fortunately from the the Henry brothers, and it will be definitively the last one for a while. It is quite narrow, but two hours after low tide I already could land through shallow mud field. Another beach before, with another two houses, had a dry mud field before, so I was better off with this one anyway. I checked for camp sites, one local’s spot with a leaf framework I didn’t want to occupy, never sure if not some locals want to camp there the night, so I opted to camp on top of the sandy bar of the beach. Quite daring, as it turned out on high tide, but just about…the water was rising softly, the waves over the shallow muddy sea ground were only gently lapping on the beach. I was not really up to move camp!

The coconut trees were hanging full but high up


Some better accesssible fruits, but I am lacking the tool (and skills) for the harvest - a machete!


Half an hour before, I was just putting up my tent, I got scared to death about six dogs running barking loud up to me, escorted by two young local guys calling them desperately back. I started to calm the dogs down in German :-), worked…the two locals were just coming back from a walk along the beaches, living in the huts on the other beach. A quick look at my boat (you were coming with THIS one?), a short friendly talk “Is this really the last sandy beach in this direction?” (thank goodness they do speak English here!), but the two guys didn’t seem to be to curious about my whereabouts. Ok…no problem.

The underside of the dead snake


I found my very first, fortunately dead snake in front of my tent on the beach when I was just about to move in, I am sure one of the dogs must have dropped it there. I would have seen it there before…It was about 50 cm long, black on top, yellow/ black on the underside. I took a few pictures, but soon threw it with the help of a stick deep into the forest. Yuck! Later one of the dogs came back, searching in front of my tent for something… was he looking for his snake toy? Poor guy…

22 comments on “Sun 03/11-2013 Day 555

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Ron in Vancouver

Hi Freya,

Just wondering about when and where your current water supply came from? Seems to me most likely source for present ailment.

Happy you are progressing well against tricky currents is present location. 😉

Scott Evans

Sounds like a Salipenter or yellow rat snake. Typical to Guyana and usually found near water. It eats chickens, frogs and other snakes. I’m glad you are progressing safely to your exit to home. Gutes fahren.


Wow Freya You have been having a variety adventures over the past week while i was in retreat. Arising and passing away of body, feelings, mental formations and mental objects all manifesting on the surface of the ocean while the depths of the Ocean is clear and infinite.
You and your kayak are riding the waves of consciousness just like those of us who go into retreat!
Be well, happy and safe
Karen 🙂

Randall Lackey

Glad to read your day was a bit more pleasant and youll be resting well tonight high and dry. Safe paddling.

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