Sun 08/02-2015 Day 775

[pe2-image src=”http://lh4.ggpht.com/-WwkeKzI8WTE/VN3ydmvAPGI/AAAAAAAAl-c/G2rLChwDKmI/s144-c-o/IMG_1390.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage23Brazil6RioDeJaneiroToFlorianapolis02#6115310459466824802″ caption=”With Christian Fuchs on Ilha Grande” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1390.JPG” ]

 

Highlights: Met briefly Christian Fuchs!
Lowlights: Quite bumpy ride along the cliffs
Launch: Low surf
Landing: Low surf
Pos: here
Loc: Ilha Grande
Acc: tent
Dist: 45,3 km
Start: 6:30 End: 17:25

No military person showed up here on the “Military Area” beach, I slept undisturbed. I had decided to paddle outside the Ilha Grande, it was shorter, had enough safe beaches to land just in case and was probably more rugged and beautiful. And I could paddle also along the cliffs at least for awhile, not only crossing deep indented bays like in the northern way. The forecast was low easterly winds, so no headwind fight like yesterday. I was still quite sore from that long continuous tough 13 hrs paddle yesterday without many breaks.

The crossing over to the south eastern corner went easy, though I noticed I got a bit washed out by wind and current in a dogleg. I made a short break for breakfast in the shelter of a small rocky island on the eastern side.The island was occupied with some weekend fishermen dumped swimming to the rocks by some boat, as there was no floating device and no beach access to be seen, just steep rocks. Playing Robinson seems to be quite popular here!

The first 4,5 km along the rugged huge granite boulders of the island were simply stunning! I paddled close to the cliffs, enjoying the sight and the feeling of being privileged to be here just by myself.Almost…about 15 motorboats loaded with happy week enders, were driving past me in a high speed, probably for an island round tour. Fortunately they were driving all quite far out, what a pity for their sight seeing quality, what a luck for mine and for my safety and peace…it was quite bumpy overall with the wash up to the rocks and reflective waves, and I felt like already yesterday a general current running against me as the wind was almost nothing. Speed was low, but my planned distance for today under 50 km.I simply enjoyed the paddle! But I also enjoyed the sea becoming calmer again across the bays with the beaches…

I cut straight across, and the next almost 8 km of close to the cliff paddling came up soon. It was even a bit more rough, nothing serious, but not really fast paddling either. And my dreaded sea sickness started to kick in in this up and down and back and forth…I actually considered to call it a day already on the next beach around the corner.

But surely as soon as I got free of the cliffs, the feeling of sea sickness stopped and I decided to keep on paddling those 9 km across the bays with the next two wide beaches and to turn around the south western headland to a small seclude beach. A good easterly pushing wind had set also in, which made my speed acceptable eventually. But also the sea a slight bit more rough…all still good.

Only the last 2,5 km along the south western headland cliffs, aptly named “Dragons Point”,it was a bit too rough to my comfort feeling, but with a good mental state on concentration and some marching song on my mind I rode it patiently out until I could turn in around the last heavily breaking point into the safety of the deep small sandy bay.A good headwind coming down from the mountains made this turn in not a kiddy game either, but a lovely calm beach was in sight!

When I was calling Christian Fuchs, my main Brazilian paddling contact, from Rio de Janeiro, he mentioned that he would be with a group of paddlers out there along Ilha Grande, and maybe stop in this bay, but was not too sure about the day…so how delighted was I when I eventually spotted four kayaks parked on the beach! Three heavy solid stable doubles for his clients, and one solo kayak, Christian’s own one. No people to be seen on the beach – are they still around?

I gave it a loud whistle 100 m before the beach, and there they came down – Christian and Gabriel, the man running a small holiday place on this beach. What a delight to be welcomed by some friends! Christian Fuchs is one of the amazingly still very few and probably the best “real” sea kayakers in Brazil, building his own kayaks and running group trips along the beautiful Brazilian coast line. He has helped me a lot with hosting contacts and informations about the Brazilian coast, having paddled a big batch of the coast already himself. Thanks a lot! We have met already once on the initial THULE marketing meeting in Sao Paulo, and were planning to meet again on Ilha Bela with some other friends. What a match he was just here!
His clients were already gone with some earlier boat, and he was waiting for a pick up with the kayaks on another motorboat.
Nice to meet you again! And once more then, hopefully longer, on Ilha Bela!

He was asking me how the sea was along the southern coast, as he came along the calm sheltered northern end. Nothing today for beginners in doubles…but when he was asking me also if I had paddled the previous day inside or outside that long endless unsheltered beach from Guaratiba, I was absolutely annoyed by myself I haven’t seen the channel on the map leading under the bridge from Guaratiba inside the sheltered bay behind the long beach spit…I am so good in seeing all inland ways, if there are some, this one I didn’t even expect to be there, but it was there and I paddled the tough way outside…stupid girl! But the westerly headwind was probably also inside, and I may have given it already an earlier stop on the calm beaches all along and I may then have paddled along the longer northern side of Ilha Grande and I may not have reached then tonight ere and met Christian…all excuses…:-)

[pe2-image src=”http://lh4.ggpht.com/-AFTKHdO8fSU/VN3y6G16nEI/AAAAAAAAl-c/1WyOH4TVZUQ/s144-c-o/IMG_1401.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage23Brazil6RioDeJaneiroToFlorianapolis02#6115310949122088002″ caption=”The poor motor boat loaded three heavy doubles and a single kayak – pray for calm seas” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1401.JPG” ]

[pe2-image src=”http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ncGhDT6JGXA/VN3zFujuSeI/AAAAAAAAl-c/bm4qH5v4dWQ/s144-c-o/IMG_1391.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage23Brazil6RioDeJaneiroToFlorianapolis02#6115311148761762274″ caption=”Christian is loading his group trip kayaks” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1391.JPG” ]

 

Christian and his kayaks eventually got picked up, and I got a room offered by Gabriel in his holiday pousada a bit inland. Thanks very much, but the shorter easier way was to put up my tent in a boat shed close to the beach. I had even a simple shower there and a roof for shade and against the maybe upcoming strong wind and rain, good enough.

I eventually decided for myself it is so beautiful here, facilities are great, and my body is still so sore form the previous day long tough paddle that I will afford already a rest day here to recover my body and sores. Another crossing and two more rough headlands tomorrow to negotiate, then it will be easier. And Tuesday’s seas and winds are even calmer! So I fell asleep with the happy feeling to have a good rest tomorrow!

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Randall Lackey

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