Sun 09/02-2014 Day 591

Camp across the Cayenne river. In the distance, the mountains of Cayenne


A bit of everything

Pos: here
Loc: The intensely awaited beach
Acc: tent
Dist: 43,5 km
Start: 6:30 End: 17:00

An early start, escorted by two very early bird dog walkers with a fat camera. Paparazzi? At lowest tide, the surf was moderate, but continued all along the Kourou beach. Lots of rain! Yesterday, the beach was busy with about 15 kite surfers, and I even spotted two sailboats offshore heading to the islands and a large ship just coming out of the river. Large ship makes a large river to cross, I passed two narrow channel markers, right behind them was a black and yellow one, pointing the “danger” sign into the direction I was going… yes, we are in France!

Still I had to go right across the outlet of the river mouth… no rocks, but a nasty current against tide and wind wave creation, breaking here and there quite high. It was paddling through a minefield, with relatively good speed. Thank goodness I was though after about 5 km and the breakers calmed down.

They calmed down eventually fully and I paddled once again over a mud reef, for long time with good water level. High tide was at 1 pm, and at 1.30 pm I was almost running dry. Highest mud alarm!!! Turning instantly back and out, I prayed I won’t get stuck at this time of tide… I found deeper water, and had the same thing once more an hour later. I have shovelled loads of mud as hard as hell to get back and out of those traps! To escape the second mud field, I had to head out fully to the surf line, and for the last 20 km I paddled inside the as usual endless wide and long breaker line, catching one every minute from the side. Not strong, just wet and nasty. But at least in this way I knew I had enough water to stay afloat.

The coast was just green wet grass before a forest, and displayed at lower tide the usual muddy relatively high ledge. Nothing to land anywhere. But I had my beach marked, and was hoping that for once the sat image was correct… and endless up and down and being washed from the side with muddy brown water, until the fortunately steep and all sandy beach came in sight. I could land with no problems 4 hours after high tide, thank goodness. Some late Sunday afternoon people, an open fisherman canoe working on the many nets, a few huts, actually an idyllic beach. No one bothered me so far, as also no one did in Kourou. People seem to be a bit more French-decent here, merci!

I will arrive tomorrow at the agreed spot around lunchtime, about 20 km, but maybe later. My contacts will get about an hour before a call! Thanks for expecting me!

11 comments on “Sun 09/02-2014 Day 591

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Every day, a day that would end me; but another day at the office for you. I’m glad there’s people in the world like you. You help people like me to wake up and try just a little bit harder. Keep being exceptional!

Randall Lackey

Mud,Mud and more mud.doesn’t sound like anyones ideal shoreline.Love my mostly always sandy shores of the Gulf of Mexico,U.S.A,not to say i’m not axnious to see more of what you’ve seen in your travels. Trudge on. Safe Paddling


Well you are approaching a long awaited rest and recovery period. I think you would be wise in taking Cees’s advise and rest so that you battery is full and more! The worst thing you can do to your body is run your chi. I know this from experience.
Make sure all your equipment is in good running order. Try to line up contacts in Brazil. You will need support. From what I hear there are areas that are not safe. Do your home work.
We want you to realize your dream.

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