Sun 11/11-2012 Day 326

I reached up with the paddle for the second hat

Pos: here
Loc: Playa Talpo
Acc: tent
Dist: 65,1 km
Start: 5:20 End: 16:20

Estimated landing: Cruz Verde
Estimated starting time: Right after sunrise
Estimated landing time: Well before sunset

Our tent was as noisy in the night on our unsheltered camp spot as it can be, but earplugs did the job. We were launching on our “gently lapping” beach in first light, and were blown across the channel to the next headland in no time. There is nothing like a constantly following wind – well, if it doesn’t get almost too strong, like yesterday.

But it seems to be now always the same pattern – windy in the morning, calmer over lunch time, and breezing up strongly early afternoon. It is still the effect of the cold Humboldt current keeping the sea chilly with the land being heated up quite a lot now, especially the bare sandy desert we were paddling along the last weeks.

The coastguard found us on the water at Paracas national park

But today the swell between the islands, before we turned east to our beach. was already low when the strong wind started, so it was not as ugly as yesterday.

Picture from the coastguard boat

A fishing boat loaded with four young tourist guys were heading up the coast, it seems like a clever fisher man adds at least a bit to his budget offering tours here in this National Park area.

The harbormaster from Pisco came to bring us a present!

But the next boat we saw was no fishing boat, but the friendly Peruvian coast guard! It was only the second time in Peru we saw them on the water, different to the Chilean Navy…thanks, guys, for leaving us our privacy those other weeks and not playing geocache all the time!

They gave us a bag with food and twocoastguard hats! Thanks very much!

So today we were even quite happy about their attention as a welcome distraction, and after taking heaps of pictures with six people on board they came closer to tell us they are having a present for us…ok, not too bad of a surprise!

It had 20 knots wind here!

It was still a bit rough in the channel where they met us, so we decided to get the present around the corner turning east, where the sea should be dead calm.

...and then we rather headed to land on a windsheltered beach!

But there was the wind now…blowing us offshore if we’d be opting to cut only across the next bay. We really had to paddle hard to head against the 20-25 knots wind into the bay, to find a lee behind the still steep cliffs. This also means we surely would be landing on this Playa Talpo where we originally were also planning to land, and not to go into the next harbor.

The coast guard boat was probably noticing we had to seek shelter close along the cliffs, but with a manual depth measuring they also dared to come in close to hand over our present! Still I had to paddle out 500 m into the open wind zone again, where maneuvering close to the hard shell and high boarded coast guard boat was not too easy.

But they managed to drop me a bag with some food goodies, and two Pisco coast guard hats! This was a surprise! Just what we needed, as Peter had lost his had recently in the surf! Thanks a lot, coast guard from Pisco! This is an honourable gift, and it is actually quite honourable to get a gift at all!

The landing at Playa Talpo was steep and rocky, but had only a small dumper

The food goodie bag contained among a bunch of other things two US-Army MRE packs – “meals ready to eat”. A nice toy bag with reasonably edible food (well, mostly…) with a lot of trash left once you ate it all! I’m wondering how a whole army load is dealing with the trash such a one-man- parcel generates…and this is for ONE meal only. If you need three per day per person…at least we had something to play with this night! 🙂

We are still on schedule to arrive in Lima on Playa Pescadores on Thursday night. Four more days…

3 comments on “Sun 11/11-2012 Day 326

Ricardo Hoffmann

“…the friendly Peruvian coast guard…, different to the Chilean Navy…thanks, guys, for leaving us our privacy those other weeks and not playing geocache all the time!

Look who is throwing one’s toys out of the pram!

So grossartig und ersaunlich Ihre Leistung ist, Frau Hoffmeister, eines dürften Sie doch nicht vergessen: die chilenische Marine, wenn sie zwar keine Mützen oder MRE’s schenkt, hat Ihnen immer freiwillig und grosszügig zur Seite gestanden, und zwar wo es wirklich darauf ankam: an unserer Südküste entlang und ganz zu schweigen bei den gefährlichen roaring forties und dem Kap Horn. Durchaus andere Wetterverhältnisse als in Peru! Deshalb finde ich Ihren Kommentar, entschuldingen Sie bitte, undankbar.

Ich bin übrigens kein Marinemittglied noch habe Verwandte in der Marine. (Ich wohne in Zentralchile, und habe meinen Cousin Robert Knopel (Iquique) Angang der 2. Etappe auf Ihnen aufmerksam gemacht). Ich wünsche Ihnen weiterhin eine gute Reise, schönes Wetter und guten Rückenwind!
Ricardo Hoffmann

Jan Unold

I look forward to see you both at Christmas with your peruvian coastguard hats!
safe paddling

Randall Lackey

That was nice of the Coast guard,and I’m sure Peter appreciated a new hat and will return your spare,just in case. I’ve been eating MRE’s on my river trip also and they do generate the load of trash to carry along with you to dispose of later.Fortunately I’ve had a large supply of them and was able to “field strip” them and carry along only what I knew I”d likely eat.Enjoy your evening.Safe Paddling. Randall

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