Great paddle along a magnificent coast
Loc: Ensenada Cuyay
Dist: 58,3 km
Start: 5:40 End: 16:15
Christian came again from his home in Valencia to help me launch, and I was on the water early as usual. Thanks again to Christian Teppa for looking after me in Puerto Cabello! There is nothing like a great network of kayaking friends helping me on this trip. I just imagine in the necessary city stops there would be no one expecting me… how sad.. .this is a bit like being part of a big family!
My kayak slept well next to the guard house of the marina, thanks for watching it, and I did in a nice air conditioned room. I was amazed that the main city beach besides the marina was “already” having many busy noisy swimmers at 5.30 am!!! Or rather “still”? Just keep partying? The temperature stays the same during the night. Another beach further along was also completely busy at Sunday morning 7 am…I think the weekend party just never stops here!
The day was promising, a paddle along now high mountains with occasional lovely sandy beaches. As soon as I left the shelter of the last islands, the swell became noticeable and the rebound of the waves on the cliffs made it a bumpy lumpy funny ride. I aslo noticed there is a current in my favor, like already on crossing the bay to Puerto Cabello! Well, then paddling this direction is not that bad, as the wind stayed under ten knots. I probably had a push of 1-1,5 km/h, and rode happily quickly along!
If it wouldn’t have been Sunday, and all the magnificent beaches in the mountain gaps were PACKED with people…one umbrella besides the next one. As many beaches have no road access, the water taxi traffic was almost as heavy as when I arrived in Chichirevice. Up and down, back and forth, empty and full of people, the small boats were flying literally around my ears. Twice some young local guy stopped his empty boat to warn me to get out of the way, either further to the cliffs or further out…hey, I was already sticking myself as close to the cliffs as possible, and take as much care as I can on crossing the bays! Do they have bad experienced with other kayakers, as they seem to better warn me?
One stupid bum came eventually alone in his boat fast from behind, also very close to the cliffs as I was and liked to almost run me over, straight from behind, although I turned around early enough. I am sure that was on purpose, as he didn’t even look behind him if I was ok. Maybe this was even one of the same guy who has been talking to me. How can a “kayak” be on their working highway, as they can’t earn money from those? A real idiot. They should be happy they don’t have to go fishing today but rather can be a “chauffeur” or rather a simple tourist taxi driver…
Before one bay there were two Madonna statues high up on two different inaccessible rock spots where an especially rough and fast young topless boat driver with a boat loaded with three beach beauties was stopping – to pray he’d stay alive with his driving style on a busy Sunday afternoon?
I had to watch out not to get heat stroke, as the sun was out almost all day. I soaked my white hooded fleece shirt constantly, and paddled most of the time with the freshly dripping sponge on my head and the cockpit filled with a bit of water. It just helps…
My wish to find a private beach, even only a quiet corner, didn’t look to be fulfilled. Magnificent nature, but all beaches packed with people. What a pity…I got a beach apartment offered by David Bottome to stay in Bahia Cata, many thanks! But I was already there at 11.30 am, and made great speed and just had a shower, so stopping here was way too early and I had no urgent need to stay in a room. Also, David was not home and I would have to make alone my way through an unbroken long, probably multiple line of umbrellas with hundreds, no, thousands of tourists toward two blocks into the village. With no trolley by myself through this crowd, this was way too complicated, sorry!
I kept on paddling, as I had marked before many other beach options. All were busy, so my idea was, as the paddling was easy going, I’d paddle as long as possible until most people would be home and my chosen beach spot will be almost empty. Good idea…
Just before another village beach option to go in, I spotted a narrow beach spot, separated from the main village beach by a high single mountain. Only a single group of about 15 youngsters was sitting there, but it was already 4.15 pm, so my hope was they would be friendly and be gone soon. I landed elegantly through the quite dumping surf on the maybe 30m wide channel, but the beach ran out on sand and flat. No problem, I had worse dumpers and more narrow and steep beaches 🙂 I said friendly hello, they seemed to be impressed about me landing here, my trip, my age and guts, were all friendly and not too stoned… They understood I needed rest and my privacy after such a long day. I asked them not to tell the whole nearby village about my presence, to not attract more visitors. As far as their promise goes…
The sea is quite high now, and the breakers wash in heavy in this spot. But I should be able to launch tomorrow with no problem. Timing as usual…
It rained heavily for about 20 min while I put up my tent, but the whole evening and night stayed peaceful, after the youngsters had their full moon bath!