Sun 18/01-2015 Day 754

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-n4eO32ycrmY/VM4Ew-NVigI/AAAAAAAAlJ4/QzkPV9DDTr8/s144-c-o/IMG_1093.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110826983767509506″ caption=”My deep rocky bay of Morro de Pescaria Guarapari” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1093.JPG” ]

 

Highlights: Camp on a most beautiful beach
Lowlights: Eventually I have the beach for myself at 7pm…
Launch: Straight runout of the river through the waves of the bar
Landing: Sheltered bay beach
Pos: here
Loc: Morro de Pescaria Guarapari
Acc: tent
Dist: 33,1 km
Start: 6:05 End:12:00

The river mouth I slept last night was busy with fisher men all night long, mostly throwing nets or just rods. I should have guessed that on a Saturday night. But there are not many other options to camp halfway remote with a reasonable sheltered landing. The small bay on the other side was full of fishing boats also and probably accordingly busy all night. But I think “pedestrian fishermen” are way more rude than the fishermen with boats who know the sea and what I may have done on it with my kayak.

The fishing guys here were walking and chatting noisily all night without respect just close around my tent, stumbling more than once over one of my guy lines in darkness. Ok, I was camping right at their fishing spot, but can’t they guess that there is someone inside the tent needing rest, when they see the kayak? The guys coming later probably didn’t know this was a woman needing her beauty sleep and couldn’t read the writing on the boat to gain as much respect as the guys from the afternoon…I could have killed them at some point.

One curious guy even dared to have a peep into my slightly open outer tent at 4.30 am – I was just half awake, heard some noise and thought it was one of the many stray dogs and made an according hissing sound to chase the beast away…I noticed the same second the beast had a face and I had chased a curious young fisher man away in the same manner. He was running like an anxious dog with his throw net under his arm to his mate at the beach as if he had discovered a ghost in the tent, hehehe…but my night was over at that point. I was to get up anyway half an hour later…

At least some other friendly fisher man tried to help me launching in the morning, not that I needed help…I easily got afloat in a calm puddle bay at the side inside the river mouth and watched the waves at the bar, started slowly after the big ones were over to get caught by the strong current and rushed eventually out like on a highway through some confused water, but with no chance on a precise timing. I was lucky, and got out with not catching any big ones, although the way out to unbroken water was a bit of a distance. All good. Now just paddling around the headland without getting entangled by the many fishing lines, and all is well!

[pe2-image src=”http://lh6.ggpht.com/-RGBI8V1jC2I/VM4ExI1f8CI/AAAAAAAAlJ4/gM0y-kJ6qS0/s144-c-o/IMG_1097.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110826986620317730″ caption=”Rocks and rough sea” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1097.JPG” ]

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-6C1ioXHa4EM/VM4EiUXNTRI/AAAAAAAAlJ4/JYYFu6rslvE/s144-c-o/IMG_1088.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110826732016454930″ caption=”Cacti on the rocks” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1088.JPG” ]

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-XLItHF8WACY/VM4EfENSbBI/AAAAAAAAlJ4/fPWGAgru6UU/s144-c-o/IMG_1086.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110826676140272658″ caption=”Camp in the nature protected bay of Morro de Pescaria Guarapari” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1086.JPG” ]

 

The swell was big after the head land, and the potential landing on the straight steep beach very ugly. It calmed down soon in the shelter of some big islands. but then the wind started to blow. Karel fore casted correctly 15-20 knots in the morning, and 20 to 26 knots in the after noon, despite following direction,it would be a bit much in the after noon. I let two safe landing go, as after breezing up to over 20 knots it calmed down again a slight bit. I crossed over to a rocky headland before the big skyline city of Guarapari on no swell water, but wind which made me thinking to get in quite soon. This bay was the best option for me to land now, the very strong wind is not longer waiting any more! Correct.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-gyfRXV0teVk/VM4E_1XDqZI/AAAAAAAAlJ4/vReVegQII5U/s144-c-o/IMG_1105.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110827239090399634″ caption=”Spray went high” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1105.JPG” ]

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-T0rDXzrENBw/VM4E56txbVI/AAAAAAAAlJ4/tWoqoCxYT_Y/s144-c-o/IMG_1102.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110827137448635730″ caption=”It was a bit windy in the afternoon” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1102.JPG” ]

[pe2-image src=”http://lh4.ggpht.com/-MDgsQrlH5Aw/VM4Ew4vKxbI/AAAAAAAAlJ4/MNWz5Z-eFvw/s144-c-o/IMG_1101.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage22Brazil5SalvadorToRioDeJaneiro#6110826982298797490″ caption=”Rocks, rocks, rocks…” type=”image” alt=”IMG_1101.JPG” ]

 

Despite being open to the wind, the bay was deep enough and the swell was down here anyway to have quite a calm landing on mid-tide. But there were surely some tourists on a Sunday afternoon…no real beach life though, as the sandy stripe is almost gone on high tide, but the cliffs around were really inviting to explore.But I was quite sure to have the bay for myself at night! But before that happened at 7 pm, I had to stand noisy kids and many people passing so close by my tent I had to keep the window close to have a bit of privacy on a corner of the extremely narrow strip staying just about dry on high tide at 3 pm.

Some kind of park ranger also needed to come by even on a small motor bike probably to look more “official” in his military suit
to tell me this is a protected area and camping is not allowed. Sorry, sure, I didn’t know, and this is a “casa de emergencia” as on the eventually 30 knots wind I really was not able to leave at all. And surely I didn’t like to…

He didn’t smile very much, but read my card and told me he had to ask his boss for a permit. The boss was obviously his wife with his son coming along half an hour later with him to tell me it is ok for me to stay. Thanks! I’ll be a good girl..

The walk on the cliffs out to the now quite raging ocean was really magnificent, as the whole area here since Vitoria has mountains, many bays and cliffs with real nice beaches surrounded by rocks and not only an endless sandy coastline claiming to be a pretty beach…

Still two jet ski guys dared to drive in here on the strong wind, and on going out again they were jumping over the waves like being on horses.

Tomorrow’s fore cast is quite similar, see how far I can get…

8 comments on “Sun 18/01-2015 Day 754

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Randall Lackey

Rest well Freya,glad to read of the nice day,minus the killer winds.The Red you’re passing does sound beautiful to see.Safe paddling.

Randall Lackey

Wonderful Barbara R that you have been such a loyal and long time follower of Freya’s great blog and accomplishments.Surely you would be the one Karen asked of.Take care.Now I’ going to read Freya’s blog post,as for some reason I read the comments first tonight.

Not sure what Barbara you are looking for but if it is me—I’m following Freya as I have diligently since the start of Australia. Meeting her in Salt Lake City was the highlight of my 20 years of kayaking. Her poster is on my bedroom wall! There is no one like you Freya—who else has rounded Cape Horn in a solo sea kayak??? I truly cherish all of your efforts and always think of you when I put my butt in a boat. So glad you are healthy again—a little boredom beats those skin infections!!! You will be my heroine for the rest of my paddling life and,since I’m 72, the length of that can’t be predicted (of course nothing can be). You are a true inspiration!!!

Frances Price

Well hello, Karen! I did not realize that my comments were noticed, although I enjoy those of you and the others! 🙂

Frances Price

I hope you rest well on this night, Freya, with no interruptions. Safe launch/landing tomorrow, and happy paddling in between!

Karen

Thank you Freya for the descriptions of the coastal landscape. How wonderful to see Brazil through your eyes. Thank you again.

Hello Frances and Randall 🙂 Where is Barbara these days?

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