Sun 19/02-2012 Day 174

A beautiful sunrise!

Pos: here
Loc: Isla Vancouver
Acc: tent
Dist: 50,6 km
Start: 7:20 End: 18:15

I’m back on track in the main channel! Thank goodness, the odyssey has an end, though with a heavy detour…and thank goodness the weather was so easy…

Last night was no really good sleep, as my “perfect” camp high on the rock platform was not that perfect – as it became actually quite windy! Not much, but enough to rip on my unsecured freestanding tent. I had to place all my heavy gear bags carefully on the snowflaps from inside, to make it less noisy. Not that I’d be flying away, not that, but without guy lines in even 10 knots of wind a tent is moving every way and all flaps are flapping…

I knew after the turn of the tide after 1 am the wind would calm down as well, and eventually I simply put in my ear plugs to have at least a bit of a quiet rest. The previous night was already very short, so today I’m actually quite tired.

The morning woke me with a perfect sunrise into a deep red sky! But this meant as well the still clear blue sky was covering soon with clouds. But fortunately, it stayed still dry! There is nothing like a dry camp and gear…

I had to do quite an open crossing to the south eastern corner of isla Vancouver to get back into the main channel. The sea was first dead calm, but soon a westerly breeze came from my left shoulder, and eventually for the last hour the sea was whipped up quite a bit in that wide open space! Nothing dangerous, and as it was more or less following, it was nice again. But if you are spoiled by dead calm seas, you are yearning to be in the shelter of the big island again.

That area was like a cross road of fjords, littered with a few islands, but quite open. If I’d been coming from the main channel’s southern side, I’d have had to do a longer open water crossing.

But eventually I celebrated my turn around the south eastern corner of Isla Vancouver back into the main channel and “civilization” with a call to Peter. I rather look after my sat phone batteries and won’t call him that often, but the long term forecast says mostly all days under 10 knots of wind! It must be this northern area now, I can’t believe the same weather can be further south…

Well, this means I’d be in Puerto Eden to recharge my batteries in about 5-6 days, and I’m on the last bit of my second out of three sat phone batteries. Enough! Laptop batteries are still plenty as well. I rather carry more batteries than a solar panel in this area and in my style of long day paddling, this makes more sense to me! Though Brunton was so nice to sponsor me a great panel, I had to leave it behind after I noticed it was not compatible with my laptop in Argentina.

Food is still plenty as well! With some housekeeping, it may even reach until Puerto Montt…but I’m hoping to resupply a bit in Puerto Eden.

Because of my unwanted detour, my meeting with Juerg on his sailboat from Puerto Natales, who was so nice to get me more gaz cans for my stove, failed, very sorry! But now with this better weather I’m very sure I’m also lasting with what I have to Puerto Montt. I’d just like to be well on the safe side…so far I have never run out of any resource or supply. Good planning, good packing, good housekeeping and a reasonably sized kayak are the secrets!

Being back on the well marked and frequented channel after three unwanted days “off the beaten track” feel actually quite good. Not to talk about my Navy permit was not for that other channel…sorry, it just happened! 🙂

Who was building a hut agas ago in this remote area?

In the other channel, the only sign of humans were two leftover mooring lines in the trees from some yachts, but this was quite at the entrance. And on the second day, I actually saw the remains of an old wooden hut! Who the hell was living there..big leftover bones were lying around – from which animal? How can a person survive in that place, and why? Apart that spot, there was no litter to be seen on the beaches, as probably very few boats have ever been passing along there!

And for sure not any channel marker…I was joking my last day on the correct channel about the many lighthouses, buoys and channel markers, that a boat would need them…hahaha, I’d have needed them myself! But rather I needed an original paper chart and not only my Garmin GPS Blue Chart printed…but again, the badly charted areas are done now, as long as I’m staying properly in the main channel! Btw., the whole of the south western corner of Fjordland was like that, and many more areas.

Then as soon as I turned into the main channel again, the first lighthouse showed up, and a small fishing boat loaded with gear drove at high speed past me. You may assume the captain would be seeing me and waving driving quite close by? Or do they also have already an auto pilot, and the captain is watching a video while the boat is driving itself? Maybe…

Finding a campsite today looked more easy, as the southern end of Isla Vancouver is quite low with many bays. I chose an inlet like the one I was camping in further south for three full nights. The entry to this one was, half an hour before full low tide, too shallow to paddle into, and I had to drag my loaded kayak over a sandy bar of mussels. The furthest end in the sheltered inlet, about 300 m in diameter, had the river access, which meant as well a dry leveled spot of just about tent size covered with deep grass just besides the river mouth. The only spot to camp!

I had to chase the usual pair of ducks away, the larger one full white, the smaller one black and white. I assume the fully white one is the female?? They are not as shy and stupid as the gray ducks with the bright orange beak, which run over the water with legs and wings moving like hell, right across your bow, instead of running away from me!

Landing on the exposed gravel I found the same effect I had in that other inlet, and even better – I was landing on an area with an about 2 m wide trampoline again! It feels so funny!

Time to sleep now, without wind shaking my tent, water noise or unleveled surface! My body is quite sore after those long days! This morning, on jumping from a rock to the next while packing my boat, I strained that same nerve in my left butt cheek again, which felt a bit painful all day. But it will get better soon! Besides that, I’m fit like a fish in water…

19 comments on “Sun 19/02-2012 Day 174

I really want to tell you that I am new to writing and completely enjoyed your review. Very likely I am prone to store your blog post . You undoubtedly have excellent article content. Acknowledge it for sharing with us the best web page

On Pixabay you will find both, terrific photos and cliparts. I would imagine several of these images are copyrighted and even though I probably bought some type of license once I bought the digital content I am not going to be sharing those files. It’s possible to even download whole size images without registration.

It really is convenient day to make some goals for the long-run. I’ve study this blog and if I would, I wish to propose you very few remarkable advice.

Hiya there, just turned out to be familiar with your blog through The Big G, and discovered that it’s truly interesting. I will be grateful for if you decide to maintain such.

I just want to mention I’m very new to weblog and definitely liked this web-site. More than likely I’m likely to bookmark your blog post . You actually come with superb articles. Kudos for sharing with us your blog site.

Excellent post however , I was wondering if you could write a litte more on this topic? I’d be very grateful if you could elaborate a little bit more. Bless you!

Hello! I just wanted to ask if you ever have any trouble with hackers? My last blog (wordpress) was hacked and I ended up losing several weeks of hard work due to no back up. Do you have any methods to prevent hackers?

Hey there! Do you know if they make any plugins to assist with Search Engine Optimization? I’m trying to get my blog to rank for some targeted keywords but I’m not seeing very good success. If you know of any please share. Thanks!

Heya just wanted to give you a quick heads up and let you know a few of the pictures aren’t loading correctly. I’m not sure why but I think its a linking issue. I’ve tried it in two different internet browsers and both show the same results. — most affordable high level private proxies with 50% lower price! Elite quality, Unrestricted proxies, Very speed and Least expensive rates : just $0.25 each proxy! Ideal exclusive proxies only from — most affordable professional private proxies with 50% discounted! Top notch quality, Limitless proxies, Very speed and also Cheapest price ranges : simply $0.25 per proxy! Finest private proxies simply by

Chuck H.

Edda: There were a lot of English, Scottish and Irish participants in Chile’s early history. A glance at some of their Navy’s ship names is instructive: O’Higgins, Cochrane, Almirante Williams, Simpson, Thomson, Hyatt, O’Brien.

So good to see you back on track navigationally. Bet it feels so satisfying to be making progress again! As usual your writing is wonderfully visual, like looking at it through DVD cam. Bet there was some good colorful language flying round on those dead-ends….!!


Question for the history buffs: Why do so many of the places have English/Irish sounding names, when they speak Spanish in Chile?

Glad to see it’s not holding back your ambitions, Karen. Some people might just collapse onto the sofa, never mind “just day paddles”. Good on you!

Glad you are back on track and what a shame you missed Juerg. Enjoy the improved weather


Freya toll ,nun bist du auf dem richtigen Weg. Freut mich, dass du einen guten Tag gehabt hast. Hoffe, dass du gut schlafen konntest und deine Schmerzen weg sind. Für heute wünsche ich dir gutes Wetter
liebe Grüsse aus DK

Karen Russell

Hello Freya, Just checking in to see how you were progressing. You are doing amazing. Remember to stretch. morning and night. ( lay on your back raise your left knee let it drop over your right knee with your right hand let the weight of your arm give the left knee and leg some weight to stretch your butt muscles) use an anti inflammatory natural or not, to reduce the swelling.
I have a rare lung disease that only effects women called LAM for short. therefore I can do short day paddles and enjoy the life that I do have. It is so inspiring to see you paddling this great adventure.
While you are paddling, Remember everything is impermanent. All emotions, states of mind are subject to change. Knowing this directly can bring you joy and then you can share it with others. As you are doing.


Any medical experts out there that can help w/a diagnosis of the nerve pain?? Sounds like sciatica. She may need advice on how to mitigate the aggravation.

Comments are closed