Thu 23/02-2012 Day 178

Camp with hill view on the dry moss

Pos: here
Loc: Isla Wellington Caleta Refugio
Acc: tent
Dist: 51,2 km
Start: 7:10 End: 17:00

I had a great night’s sleep! Long, almost undisturbed (I still felt I needed to look outside at 2 am how the water level was, and for sure the sand flies came in…), with a tad bit of light rain. There is nothing like a horizontal bed place without bumps and sliding to one side or downhill!

Still stuffing a soaking wet tent…nothing is perfect. But it’s supposed to be a dry day, and the tent dries fast putting it up first at night.

I did well taking that camp site yesterday! On the first glance, there wouldn’t have been a reasonable spot for the next half day! I’d have looked behind the islands right before I started to cross over the channel to the other side, but no need.

And I did well taking Canal Pitt and Andrews, instead of the main channel! As soon as I crossed to the other side, the ocean swell coming south west out of the off shore Bahia Salvacion through Canal Conception was playing up quite a bit! It was a beautiful following south west wind, but all together the swell and the reflection off the solid rock wall of Isla Wellington made it quite choppy! No way to land for a pee until maybe about 10 km before Punta Cameron.

At the lighthouse of Punta Cameron, Canal Concepcion turns from going north east to north, and the swell is gone. The islands become much more tame as well, with a few bays and lower land. A wide bay with three nice Caletas was inviting to find a camp spot, and in the second one with the nice name Caleta Refugio I stopped at the end where the river comes out, parked my boat on the side high and dry and tied to a tree, and walked up with minimum gear a low hill onto a mossy open field.

So far I had avoided to camp on those moss areas, which had been always soaking wet. But here, after those long almost dry days, the moss felt great, and even had a nice smell! It is not supposed torain heavily tonight, so my spot will be perfect! Dry, horizontal, wind protected, no surf noise, soft, sunny, with a nice view of the bay, and it has even (so far) no sand flies! What else do I want…if Fjordland camping could always be like this…

I’m really wondering if my calm dry weather spell for more than a week now is normal being further north, or if it is just good luck? In any case, I enjoy and deserve it…

Two more days until my next pit stop, as I refused myself to pull off two super-long days…what for? I think, 50 km for today are enough. About 90 km left to Puerto Eden!

7 comments on “Thu 23/02-2012 Day 178

Barbara Rufencht

Glad you are getting some decent weather. I paddled with an outfitter in those channels and fiords in Feb. about 3 years ago and there was lots of rain (and some sun). Like you noticed, inland is completely impenetrable. Not hiking country! Love reading your blogs but will miss for 2 weeks while paddling off LaPaz BajaSur. There it will be delightfully warm :-).

Jörg Hofferbert

Even on isla wellington ! I say it the second time: Freya, you are a rocket :-))

But every day i pursue your advance.

Your next photo´s i can´t wait for.


I read somewhere that rounding the Hoorn requires travel from S50 on the east side to S50 on the west side of South America.

You’ve now passed that milestone. Congratulations.


es regnet in der Gegend relativ viel. Aber je mehr du in den Norden kommst um so besser wird es . Aber leider wohl erst ab Puerto Montt. Aber freu dich wenn du den Wind im Rücken hast denn der Südwind bringt eigentlich immer gutes Wetter mit sich. Toll, dass du so gut voran kommst. Weiterhin alles Gute und das beste Wetter 🙂
grüsse aus dem heutigen “stürmischen” DK

Amir Nadel

Great paddling,Freia. Hope the weather will smile to you. keep on going. Its almost half a year


Glad to read you had a good night sleep, and the weather is showing its nicer face, for now. It may be a good idea not to get used to it, for I have read that Puerto Eden and nearby Bahia Felix have one of the wettest weathers on record, with just a few rainless days a year. Sorry 🙁 But you may be lucky enough that you may be there during their rainless days 🙂 But in general the weather will get better the farther north you travel. I hope 🙂

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