Tue 02/04-2013 Day 441

[pe2-image src=”http://lh6.ggpht.com/-IHUbImg4-lM/UWB9ZJxdP-I/AAAAAAAAUeY/zwS2v3EUgnw/s144-c-o/P4022027.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection2Stage14Colombia2BoarderPanamaToBoarderVenezuela#5863824585909944290″ caption=”Compared to the BIG GRAY WALL of the ‘Cartagena de Indias’, the ‘Cabo Tiburon’ looks small…” type=”image” alt=”P4022027.JPG” ]

 

Pos: here
Loc: Punta Coquito
Acc: Navy ship “Cabo Tiburon”
Dist: 50,1 km
Start: 7:45 End: 15:55

I was completely physically and mentally done yesterday after that 1 1/2 hr boat ride. My body and brain never got shaken around so much, I got cold and sea sick – all after a 60 km 10 hrs paddle in conditions where you go as much horizontal as vertical. I urgently need to organize to get my deserved rest earlier, means the arrival on the mother ship needs to be within 1/2 hr, if possible. On calm seas, the ride may have not only taken shorter, but been less stressful for my kayak and myself. But the boat simply couldn’t go faster, of we all would have been flying over board!

We had to hold the kayak on top of the many (fortunately plastic) petrol barrels, with four people, that it would not be sliding over board on the bumps. It was marginally padded on the bow with the only available fender, which was just right broken. Occasionally, it slid to the side of the boat where a line of screws was sitting. Not to talk about my spine getting compressed on the unavoidable jumps, and getting colder and colder being wet. I could barely stand to work out the jumps with my legs. Fortunately, I got not that much sea sick that I had to throw up, but I couldn’t eat for a while once flat on my bed on the big ship.

The night’s rest got short, arriving at almost darkness at the ship. I also had to pack my things for the change of boats tomorrow. I was only able to do so after 1/2 h rest on my bed. Then my short update, and one bag of peanuts, in the 1/4hr of real rest before falling asleep, needed to be dinner. Paddling does barely get me to my limits, but this additional long boat ride did.

They said the huge ship can’t get closer to the coast than this 10 km+ out there. In the bay before Carpurgana we were anchoring within 2-3 km to the village. But I am not the captain and don’t know the sea ground.

The paddle itself yesterday was actually amazingly quick despite the still high seas. There really must be a current going with me, in contrast to what they said would be going against me along the coast. The speed can’t be from the north west wind only and the empty kayak. But whatever it is, I was happy to make good distance!

First time I forgot to put on my lucky kayaking necklace last morning – maybe this is why I had to suffer that much at night?

Before we actually drove last night out to the boat, we met the other coast guard boat which will be taking over tomorrow. They obviously also needed to ride out to the ship, and were driving much faster without a loose kayak on the deck and with having to take less care of jumping the waves. Lucky them!

This morning, I was asking to get started at 5.30 am, the guy I had to talk to about that said yes, no problem. I was hoping to get on the coast guard boat in first light, to get paddling reasonably early after we rode back to my spot.

This morning, not only the small coast guard boat came, but also the smaller new ship where I was going to sleep on. This is actually an improvement to the Pacific side, where I was sleeping on that kind of new coast guard boat with that small bow compartment! But in these bumpy waters I’d not be happy on that boat!

You may think when both, the boat and the ship arrived eventually at 6.15 am, I could get my kayak loaded asap, to get riding back to my spot to start early as I wanted? No, first the small ship had to go alongside the huge one, to unload 5 marine students plus their luggage, and to load my bags. That maneuver already took almost an hour. Only then it was time for me and my kayak to get loaded on the small coast guard boat. Well, time management is not fully under control here for my liking… at least the ride back to my spot was smooth with the waves this morning, and eventually I could get started at 7.45 am, 1 1/2 hr later than I’d have loved to be on the water…

As much as I am not too happy about those long procedures to get on and off the ship where I am sleeping on, as much I appreciate the hospitality of the Colombian Navy – and a cool, dry, safe, free and bug free place to sleep! I still prefer this kind of stress over the sleepless scratching night with liters of sweat running and itching skin keeping awake. Then I rather sleep shorter, but with quality.

My paddle was fast even today in average speed, and despite the late start and the even relatively early finish, I managed to do 50 km. I will be in Cartagena in three days on Saturday night, as the great calm westerly wind will stay for the next days. I did not really expect that! But when I went due north the last hour today with eventually again around 12-15 knots wind and whitecaps, I noticed my speed was dropping quickly well under 5 km/hr!

The scenery had changed a lot since I crossed the Golf of Uraba. Now the whole coast is low cliffs, with only tiny narrow beaches littered with logs, if at all. Wherever the cliffs are down and a small beach shows up, there is also some human activity going. I may have had troubles to find a quiet remote campsite also. Yesterday along the coast the surf also looked quite uninviting to go in anywhere. Just as well I didn’t have to think about landing. Then rather riding endlessly on an open coast guard boat!

No single marine mammal to be seen, and very rarely one or two pelicans or other birds. It seems that the warm water kills all life apart from the fish. I didn’t see a single boat out there since the holiday area on the cape between Panama and Colombia. No fishing activity anywhere, and few boats on the beaches. They don’t have any harbours here either.

This night, I decided to finish early, as getting used to a new boat and crew may take some more time. When I got my pick up from the coast guard boat, which stayed nicely away from me all day, I was asking them where the ship had gone, as I didn’t see it anywhere. I was hoping it would be coming much closer to the coast as promised, that the ride won’t be as long tonight! I cleverly put already my tiny windbreaker pants and jacket on, and was lying on the bow floor space for a while on the beginning of the ride to stretch my back and to relax already.

The ship was supposed to be also 10 km out there, not much less than yesterday! The big difference made the sea state today and the storage of my kayak in the aisle, reasonably padded. But we also were actually driving 20 km and 1 1/4 hr, out to Isla Fuerte, where the ship was supposed to be eventually on a calm anchorage. When we arrived, there was no ship – yet. We had to wait for another 1/2 hr, until it arrived. I was eventually cold despite my windbreaker, as we all got soaked on the ride.

Finally, finally I could board the ship at 5.45 pm, to get my deserved rest. The “Cabo Tiburon” is of similar size like the ship I was sleeping the first night in Panama, and I also have to share the cabin with the captain and the second captain. But – both of them are women! Interesting combination! Liliana, the captain, already showed her navigation skills on going alongside the huge “Cartagena de Indias” this morning, and I could already greet her. I didn’t know at that point that even the second captain was a woman, Paola! Both are very nice young ladies. But I am feeling quite like an old lady between all those young Navy folks! Thanks also for hosting me on your ship! The plan is that I’ll be escorted by the “Cabo Tiburon” as a mother ship until the border. Not too bad! There are 12 people overall on board.

My coast guard boys are obviously anchoring also here tonight, this gives me some hope I can start early tomorrow, despite the long ride back which will probably be fast with the waves in the calm morning conditions. And I will pull out just for the boat ride, especially for the way back, my long warm paddling pants and jacket which I didn’t think I’d need at all here in this latitude and was already thinking to send back!

7 comments on “Tue 02/04-2013 Day 441

Frances Price

Ah, for every upside, there is a downside. For comfort and safety, you must trade convenience and efficiency. So you have yet another item to add to your kayaking experiences, Freya. Just think of the wonderful book all this will make!

Hope your skin is healing nicely; happy paddling!

Randall Lackey

Too bad to hear the morning and afternoon pickups are being so long and rough. I am sure you know its best for you all the same for your safety and comfort.Hopefully the up and coming countris navies will take as good a care of you if needed.Safe Paddling.

Romina

Te admiro muchísimo,Freya. Espero poder decírtelo personalmente al llegar a Buenos Aires. Buen descanso!!

Eureka

Curious if you find this trip more unexpectedly challenging than Australia, trying to coordinate pick ups and drop offs by the Mother Ship and meeting with the Coast Guard for the sake of safety and comfort? It must have been much easier in some respects paddling solo to be free to decide when and where you wanted to be without depending on the schedules of others.

Richard Mason

Great read– Amazing experiences –You are so lucky that the Colombian Navy are so keen to help you.

Karen

Sounds like your body and mind are being challenged. I hope the young female captains can see to it that your rides back and forth are less stressful. I have to say the Colombian Navy is really making an effort to make sure your realize your goal of paddling around SA.

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