Tue 24/01-2012 Day 148

P1290111.JPG
Some nice fjordland coast

Pos: here
Loc: Isla Basket
Acc: tent
Dist: 3,9 km
Start: 13:15 End: 14:20

I fell asleep last night with a very sore feeling all over my body after this challenging headwind paddle for 40 km, and woke accordingly sore, barely able to move. But I knew I could sleep in this morning regarding the wind forecast, and I just about opened my eyes at 8.30 am. I could hear it by the sound of the wind with the strong gusts in between, that it was much stronger than yesterday when I landed…no paddling today…and tomorrow…maybe Thursday morning…but Friday to Sunday seemed to be easier wind.

I read all morning, but around noon I felt the gusts got less strong and frequent…but my tent site was in a sheltered bay…was it really possible to go? Well, what can happen…only that I either have to turn around, or to find another camp site further along the way. The water is sheltered and not big, just wind choppy, but the wind may be still ugly…

The final decision made my feet…they were warm and cozy, and my body felt not too sore any more. I thought I should rather give it a try instead of sitting around for another two days, and packed…

Paddling out of the bay was already tough, as there was additionally a strong counter current coming around the corner. I decided to change course and to cross south directly to Isla Brecknock (?), where I was hoping to find shelter from the west wind. Tough paddling, abut I made headway into the small lee of a tiny island in between, then continued to the main island.

But the was no shelter at all to be found, even in the kelp area it was still blowing. the wind in those channels was really funnelling into every corner! Well, if here is no shelter, where else…the crossing west to the next island would even be more ugly.

I spotted a small beach, guessed I at least gave it a try today and can’t feel guilty about not having paddled, and rather looked for a new campsite. The beach was marginal as all beaches are here, but besides the mouth of a tiny creek there is usually a bit wider, higher gravel or sand bar, just about big enough to stay dry for one single tent.

Well, you always have to do a bit of leveling work with the feet to have an even surface to sleep on. But I rather take those spots, accepting high tide coming close to the tent, than camping on the soft but soaking and uneven higher grass and moss, if possible at all. There you never know if you press harder with a foot or elbow if the tent floor holds up and won’t fill with water…though my Hilleberg tent floor usually is fully waterproof. But the rough treatment on Isla Deceit left some tiny rock holes allover, and I’m not sure of it any more.

Reading high tide mark in the beach sand is usually no problem, still I rather wake up at night and have a look :-). Pitching the tent with rock weights sometimes feels like an old kiddy game, building a new “cave” home! But it rather gave me ugly memories back to my Isla Deceit camp site…I really would like to forget that spot! The whole experience around Cape Horn, including the pictures of Alejandro’s death, made me actually a little more carefully on each paddle…maybe it’s good…how was that one comment? “There are old pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots…” – how true…

A real *catastrophe* just happened – my e-book’s battery is empty! Never have I run it fully down so far…I connected it to my computer to charge, see whatwill last longer longer…computer battery, or e-book battery…but I rather want to go *paddling* than reading!!!

The ducks outside are making protesting noise I’m here…actually, no animal is more stupid than those ducks… when I’m approaching a family with a bundle of young ducklings, both parents pretend to be sick and “fly” with lame wings ahead of you for half an hour, pretending they are the easier prey to catch. This is quite annoying, to have such a “clever” stupid duck in front of you that long… 🙂

19 comments on “Tue 24/01-2012 Day 148

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Mark Harrison

Williwaws. Yes nasty viscous gusty off the cliffs. I first heard the word I think from Joshus Slocums book. And we experienced them many times going round Ireland in 1978. We were going half the pace of Freya back in those days , and thought 1000 miles was a big deal.
Love the blogs, and totally gripped by the story! WHAT an achievement even so far!

Karen Russell

Freya, Hope your core is warming up. Be kind to your body. Remember everything is impermanent, difficult states arise and pass away. Just as the earth revolves around its axis. We approach day light and then night light. Never able to cling. Rest in kindness.
Enjoying reading about your travels.

joe

jano, the kindle edition of Fearless is coming, i’m told, but i’m not sure when…i’ll give a shout when it becomes available…happy reading! joe

Meike

Freya mir scheint, dass die Argentinier in deiner Nähe sind. Vielleicht seht ihr euch ja. Hoffe dir geht es gut 🙂
pas på dig

joe

hey jano, i’ve written to the publisher and asked, yet again, about the kindle edition. it’s coming, i’m told, i just don’t know when. thanks much for your interest…joe

Chuck H.

I’m seconding everything Frances and Edda wrote! Don’t ever forget Isla Deceit, and why you got there — it’s way too valuable an experience. As Frances said, “There is no hurry”. Besides, if you get short of food, you can always eat ducks!

Jano Mossman

Freya,
I got my “eBook” after being pinned down on an Gyaros island in the Aegean Sea for 4 days and finished all my paperbacks leaving me nothing else to read. The “eBook” is a safety device that keeps you content in your tent instead of doing something foolish because you’re going “shacky wacky” land bound. Thanks for the tip on the old explorer series,I think like you the biggest problem with the ebook is finding something engaging to read, which makes me ask,
why isn’t Fearless available on Kindle? I know it’s not your project, but it’s exactly the kind of book I search for on Amazon.
I did get my paperback copy this week from my pre-order months ago, but Joe, if your reading this, get thee to Kindle for us adventuring sort.
Freya, if you read this, I’m the guy from Kansas that worked with Ale to get you the Bluechart chip. I am truly sorry for his tragic death and crave more info on the specifics that led to his demise.
We emailed back and forth for weeks trying to figure out how to get the chip through Argentinian Customs as he warned me what a mess it could be. In the process we got to know each other, both doing our bit to be part of your historic paddle. He will live on in our hearts and minds as the kind and generous man he was.
I don’t know if you can see our email address when we post, but if there is anything else you need that I can help you with I’d be honored to.

Steve King

williwaw |ˈwilēˌwô|
noun
a sudden violent squall blowing offshore from a mountainous coast.
ORIGIN mid 19th cent.: of unknown origin.

You are in williwaw country.
Cold air sliding downhill.
Funnelling down narrow valleys.
Unpredictable. Sudden.
Violent.
Sweeps you away from land.
I know you will always have a plan B and a plan C.

Meike

Freya schade, dass das Wetter nicht mit macht. Hoffe es wird bald besser. Hier in Dk ist es auch nicht gerade gemütlich.
Wünsche dir einen guten Aufenthalt auf der Insel, Kopf hoch :-). Es wird schon wieder besser werden
wir denken an dich

Frances Price

Keep that quote about “old, bold pilots” in your head, Freya. There is no hurry, as South America surely isn’t going anywhere for a while. Please take all precautions; many are sharing in the joy of your trip!

Edda

Glad to hear you are more cautious. PDF’s, helmets and kayak tether are useful in these waters, even if they are a pain at times.

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