[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-54I6MWYrCSE/UyrzcmG0X_I/AAAAAAAAaAQ/C7wnCvz-qVE/s144-c-o/P2250055.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage18Brazil1CayenneToAmazonasDelta#5992869926760898546″ caption=”My small ‘landing harbor’ calmed down after high tide” type=”image” alt=”P2250055.JPG” ]

Tide is always against me…
Pos: here
Loc: South of Ilha de Maracá
Acc: hammock
Dist: 44,3 km
Start: 3:15 End: 15:15

I had already turned around my kayak yesterday still afloat inside the forest, to have an easier start, just in case the water wouldn’t come fully up to my camp site. But all was easy getting out just in time at highest tide at 3 am, I got up early enough.

The tidal current was weird today, it was supposed to first flow against me as it did, but at slow pace. Slowly but surely I made my way in the dead calm night and water, with little light of the last three days with moon and stars hiding mostly behind clouds. Still all was feeling safe, I was hand railing my way along the dark wall of the forest line, keeping enough distance not to be hitting a log sticking out of the more shallow water.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-wyBqe_gVKFU/UyryZNqEyUI/AAAAAAAAaAI/fkn5AIhKsJA/s144-c-o/P2250054.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage18Brazil1CayenneToAmazonasDelta#5992868769146652994″ caption=”Inside the calm channel of Ilha de Maraca” type=”image” alt=”P2250054.JPG” ]

I was already hungry for breakfast on the water at 5 am, fuelled up in peace, and noticed there was barely any current against me now. Good. It stayed like it almost all day, I made not great, but ok progress with around 5 km/ h. The coast line changed to be a bit more friendly, not so steep in front of the still there 2 m clay wall, but it was a mix of sand and mud, just about walkable between old tree trunks laying about. I was able to stop a few times to relax my sore body, once I forgot to take my sandals off and my freshly glued sole again almost tore off the rest of the sandal. SHIT! Sandals are just not made for walking on sticky clay mud! My socks are just perfect, as long as the mud is not having too many old log pieces.

[pe2-image src=”http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GKlQ3QbI_Ck/UyryXvjjk6I/AAAAAAAAaAA/YwnspRfDRfw/s144-c-o/P2250053.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage18Brazil1CayenneToAmazonasDelta#5992868743886377890″ caption=”This beach tries to be sandy, but is covered with mud” type=”image” alt=”P2250053.JPG” ]

All morning I heard the tuck tuck tuck of an engine driving slowly along the island side, but couldn’t see a boat. On the river there was an amazing sandy tongue sticking into the channel, and at low tides I had to give it a wide berth. I spotted also three sleeping platforms around that river mouth, but no people. Maybe those were the reminders of a survivor’s camp :-), but more likely simply fisher men’s places.

Actually, it is amazing where you find the reminders of fishing net poles, fisher men one day must have set them up in the hope to catch some fish in the spread out net at that spot. Are there really not more convenient places to fish?

[pe2-image src=”http://lh6.ggpht.com/-3TolPJDbIkM/UyryUW7m4pI/AAAAAAAAZ_4/2ApPsaBH8-k/s144-c-o/P2250052.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage18Brazil1CayenneToAmazonasDelta#5992868685736764050″ caption=”A typical shitty clay mud steep beach on mid tide” type=”image” alt=”P2250052.JPG” ]

Then came the pearl of this channel coast – an area of a flat grassy land with really inviting looking flat dry camp sites – but it was first too early to get up the clay ledge, and too early to stop anyway. I felt like I HAD to get to Sucuriju tomorrow night! These low wind days were a gift, stronger wind is supposed to come up on Thursday, and the Pororoco time is threatening on Friday/ Saturday. I rather have one day spare, just in case…

So I kept on paddling, mourning the beautiful camp site area, telling myself this was probably again water buffalo terrain. The next area was forest coast with few fallen logs, but steep clay. The wind breezed up on the running up tide, but where was the usual drag? Instead, I realized the tide was coming into this channel below the large Ilha de Maracá from both ends, therefore the long slack water area in the middle. So fighting current again, plus wind 15 knots, chopping the water up with backwashes from the clay wall. Quiet bumpy and unfriendly! And where to camp now? I was ready to turn back to the flat area, just in case I’d not find a suitable spot until a certain tiny headland which was looking like it had a bit of shelter from the chop of the waves and wind. Just patience…and yes, as soon as the tide was at the highest, the backwash was lower, and I spotted a tiny bay where the water reached just the second last upper clay ledge in a kayak length, found it calm enough to paddle just on top and jumped out with the bow line in my hand, just in case the kayak decided to be washed down again…
I climbed up the last clay ledge, tied the bow line to a tree, and started to unload to by able to drag the boat up fully. All with only socks on, for sure…

The hammock site was nice above relatively dry clay, my kayak got turned into starting position to slide easily back into the water tomorrow morning in darkness. Bugs were again at bay while preparing to sleep. One more day (hopefully), and I’d be in some sort of civilization!

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-cwHDycW-ZlQ/UyrzgbDx9KI/AAAAAAAAaAg/s1GdRUU8xHg/s144-c-o/P2250056.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection3Stage18Brazil1CayenneToAmazonasDelta#5992869992514843810″ caption=”A walkable half dry hammock site but nothing for a tent” type=”image” alt=”P2250056.JPG” ]