Wed 06/03-2013 Day 414

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fXiw_uuIBZ0/UT0RIi2HDNI/AAAAAAAATew/Ifu9BFqRDuw/s144-c/P3061838.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection2Stage13PanamaBoarderColombiaPacificToBoarderColombiaCaribbean#5853853929141898450″ caption=”Camp on Isla del Rey” type=”image” alt=”P3061838.JPG” ]

 

Pos: here
Loc: Isla del Rey
Acc: tent
Dist: 31,7 km
Start: 6:20 End: 16:45

Tomorrow’s estimated landing: Isla Bartolomé

A good night’s sleep on a very unlikely inhabited island, I really saw no sign of people anywhere. Some very old footprints. As it is quite tricky to land a small motorboat here, it is also unlikely I will get unwanted visitors…

My Aeronaval guys did not show up yesterday, although promising, and also today they were unseen. Actually quite nice, as I really feel they are very much surplus here. I appreciate escort and protection when necessary, but not here…

[pe2-image src=”http://lh6.ggpht.com/-mep1EC5W8eo/UT0P6Lu4-lI/AAAAAAAATeA/7ok_7N8XVrA/s144-c/P3061829.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection2Stage13PanamaBoarderColombiaPacificToBoarderColombiaCaribbean#5853852582907804242″ caption=”A solo hairy guy” type=”image” alt=”P3061829.JPG” ]

 

I started through the mixed side wash with no problem, waited the right moment and pushed in. I just had to paddle a bit quickly away from the big breakers on the reef to the left. But no problem. I saw only one lonely fishing boat far out, before I was reaching Isla del Rey at Punta Gorda. Still many jumping mantas or stingrays this morning!

I paddled inside the bigger island Isla Canas, the whole archipelago seem like a very beautiful place! Many beaches everywhere, and most of them even seem to stay a bit dry on high tide! Fortunately the highest spring tide is over, as surely inside the gap I had to paddle eventually against the tide, which turned around 10 am. I made it occasionally a bit easier by paddling in eddies, but in the strongest current I could make barely 3 km/h…better than nothing!

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-lMz3d2N8Opk/UT0QhbKM8wI/AAAAAAAATeY/X2zu8R9THFE/s144-c/P3061832.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection2Stage13PanamaBoarderColombiaPacificToBoarderColombiaCaribbean#5853853257063789314″ caption=”Between Cane Island and Isla del Rey” type=”image” alt=”P3061832.JPG” ]

 

There was one larger village inside the island, and a few smaller motorboats went in and out. No one took notice from me! A large ferryboat, a motor catamaran passed by, and inside la Isla del Esprito Santo I saw three sailing boats anchoring. The first three of probably many, here and later in the Caribbean:

[pe2-image src=”http://lh5.ggpht.com/-iW4WgbN6wlQ/UT0Q0uC9SZI/AAAAAAAATeo/PkoM_v7HldY/s144-c/P3061836.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection2Stage13PanamaBoarderColombiaPacificToBoarderColombiaCaribbean#5853853588551190930″ caption=”Michael and Ursula from the yacht sykril” type=”image” alt=”P3061836.JPG” ]

 

As I had time today, planning to paddle only 30 km, which I almost had done so far, I was knocking on the door of the second sailing boat, as on the first one there seemed to by no one home. A North American/ Swedish couple was chatting a bit with me, both looked as if they have been living on their boat on low budget already for many years. What a life!

They also told me the other boats were owned by Germans, and when I looked back, I eventually saw someone on deck. I turned around, and started also a chat, and Michael and Ursula even invited me on board for a drink! Thanks a lot! I got much information about the upcoming islands and about the Panama Canal, and we shared a lot of other stories. Ursula prepared some yummy German “Bratkartoffeln” (Sautéed Potatoes, E), and I was happily digging in! As a doggy bag, I even got a salad, as I had to reject their invitation to stay on board overnight. If I didn’t want to start that early next day to make the best of the good morning tide, I could have agreed…but I also noticed I was not able to intensively chat from 1.30 pm until late night – I am just not used to talk that much any more! 🙂 Thanks to Michael and Ursula for their hospitality this afternoon! I may not be able to visit all sail boats on my way, but one or another chat, mutual dinner and even maybe stay over night will be nice! Just when I left, another sailing boat came into this obviously popular anchorage…

[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Nss9s_m66bA/UT0Qm5Mqf9I/AAAAAAAATeg/uov6QUNHdXI/s144-c/P3061835.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection2Stage13PanamaBoarderColombiaPacificToBoarderColombiaCaribbean#5853853351026524114″ caption=”Brief stop for a swim on a gravel bank between Cane Island and Isla del Rey” type=”image” alt=”P3061835.JPG” ]

 

I paddled another five km with the eventually changed tide, and found one of the many white beaches just perfect for me for the night. I paddled not much distance today, but enough with the tide mostly against me!

I will head to the second last island of the archipelago tomorrow, it has no houses, and the last one is private. From there, a direct crossing to Panama City would only be 60 km, but with those strong tides I have to split that leg in two – I will paddle first about 30 km straight to Isla Chepillo, and then along the coast about 45 km to Panama City. A detour of probably 12-15 km, but I simply don’t like to start or arrive at night!

2 comments on “Wed 06/03-2013 Day 414

Freya,
Thanks for the photo of your campsite at Isla del Rey showing the tent, your boat, and the surroundings. What a beautiful tree! I enjoy reading your blog, and following you along the coast of South America. I just finished a six day kayak camping trip in the Bahamas (with a friend). I admire you for going alone. I am thinking about it…
Buen viaje!
Michele

Randall Lackey

Great that you got to enjoy the afternoon chatting with nice people;even better that they were German giving you all more to talk about.Hopefully you’ll find time along your way to meet more intersting people.Safe paddling on the crossing to Panama City

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