Wed 12/12-2012 Day 357

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The harbor master of Paita - C. de F. Sgc Carlos San Martin Canales, with his assistant E. Zamora

Pos: here
Loc: Paita
Acc: Hostal Naval of the Peruvian Coastguard/ Navy
Dist: 21,5 km
Start: 7:15 End: 12:00

Tomorrow:
x-mas break until being back on the water on January 9th!

Our last camping night was not really the calmest – surely even in a small harbor the fishermen will go out early. But that there was also some work going on around 1 am, with two guys arriving on a motorbike, then doing their businesses. At 3.30 am, most fishermen arrived to clear their gear, and even the first roosters were crowing later at 4.15 only. we did our best to catch some sleep, but for full peace we should not have landed in this harbour.

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The last fat fur seals on a rock

But it was worth seeing how the real fishermen a bit more north are living! Surely all those balsa wood rafts were amazing, and they had made fish buckets out of inverted truck tires, somehow put in a bottom which eventually gave very nice huge buckets. Also a sail maker was sewing out of a simple plastic sheets some kind of sails for the rafts.

Later out on the water, we saw them sitting on their fish boxes on their log rafts not only in the last bay before turning east into Paita, dropped from larger fishing boats, but spread out all over the shore also. They simply throw a line with a blinker bait into the water, and haul it back in with some hard pulls in between. Obviously very successful, as from the larger boats also a bunch of men were doing simply the same. Fish by fish…and the size was not of the largest, I guess…what a business. Only in competition to the HUGE seals floating around here. One massive seal was floating dead and stinky and bloated already…yuck.

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The lucky arch at Punta El Ajureyo - I paddled through! Peter refused...

There was a beautiful huge arch at Punta El Ajureyo which was the last chance on this trip for Peter to paddle through a “lucky arch”,as all other ones were too dangerous, but he didn’t even give it a closer look, nor dared to take pictures of me paddling through easily…chicken :-((…this was really a beautiful wide arch in both directions, with almost no swell, no rocks in the way, just a bit of moving water on the entrance, but inside the wide cave area it was dead calm, also the exit. Beautiful! It had another side exit which made the scenery even nicer. Some guano collecting guys were sitting just on top of the entrance, scraping the bird shit off the rocks. I was waving at them, and disappeared inside…

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The arch at it's backside - easy passage!

A last seal colony with a bunch of those huge massive seals decorated the last corner before the last headland, and we already could spot a coast guard boat coming up to us. What a service!

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The last fat fur seals on a rock

We didn’t had to look for the coastguard in the wide harbor area of Paita ourselves, but got escorted to a big jetty with an even larger Navy ship, where we were supposed to disembark. I later learned that actually the coastguard is a part of the Peruvian Navy!

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The Peruvian coast guard picked us up before Paita's harbor

Quite a bunch of Navy/ coastguard guys were expecting us on the large boat, pointing at a ladder to climb up the steep ship wall. Hmmmm, and how to unload our kayaks and get them up there?? They are quite heavy…ok, a zodiac boat was just handy to be pulled aside the ladder, I was entering it and unloaded my boat from there easily. The bags and eventually the empty kayak got lifted up by many hands, and it was Peter’s turn then to do the same.

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We were supposed to finally landing at this ladder on the huge navy boat!

The harbor master Marcelo San Martin was greeting us friendly, thanks a lot to the Peruvian Navy to support us in such great way! They offered us a room in their guest house, which we greatly appreciated! First it was to wash the boats from sand and salt, then it was the same with all our gear, which was easiest done under the shower with me standing there! Ok, it was not a hot shower, but not as freezing cold as it would be at home turning the cold water on only 🙂

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The big boss of the place - the harbor master of Paita - C. de F. Sgc Carlos San Martin Canales. Thanks for your help!

We could spread our gear outside in the warm wind and sunshine, and it all dried quickly. Some lunch and dinner in the canteen was included in the friendly hospitality, and we fell asleep happy and satisfied with the world! 🙂

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Landing and unloading was easier with a zodiac boat in between.
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Peter's kayak is getting lifted up on the navy boat

31 comments on “Wed 12/12-2012 Day 357

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Brianne

Freya,

I have been following your progress mostly through written word via magazine articles and newspaper articles here in the states. What you do is amazing, and your an awesome kick ass person to serve as a indirect role model for thousandths of women, and men to see! I have been a sea kayaking instructor, field guide, field supervisor and a member of my competitive collegiate rowing team in college. I feel in love with the water when I was racing in a rowing shel with teammates surrounding me pushing through mental walls and embracing our physical presence on the water. I work with struggling teenagers, and have worked on risk management and staff training for three week long backpacking expeditions here in the states. I am currently in graduate school for adventure education and hope to one day try and start my own program working with teenagers to push themselves in an outdoor environment through issues of mental health, drug and alcohol addiction and behavior issues. I just wanted to say thanks for keeping complete strangers along for the ride over the internet, and to say that I wish I was out on the water instead! Let me know if you ever need another hand along for paddling company, helping with logistics or what have you. I am best suited outside and coordinating details for outside exploration and love being part of a hard working team. I get out of graduate school next december, I know this is lucky thinking but I needed to give it a shot. Have a kick ass break and enjoy the sun!

Richard Mason

Thank you for everything –the experiences you share –the geography lesson that is to be gained from following your expedition and the adventure.
Have a good rest break and enjoy the time with your family .
January 9th then.
Take care.

brian lion-cachet

Hi Freya and Peter, congratulations on the amazing progress you have made on this expedition so far. One of the great all time adventures. Merry Christmas and safe travelling. Brian

Eleanor Thomas

Congratulations and best wishes to you, Freya, and to Peter. Merry Christmas. See you back here January 9th.

Christie Northrop

So happy for you and Peter. Can’t wait until you start up again in January. Let me know if you need a kayaking partner circumnavigating the Mediterranean while staying at B&B’s very night, ha ha. That is more my style!

Ricardo Hoffmann

Congratulations, Freya and Peter, amazing performance!

Alles Gute zum Rückflug und frohe Weihnachten!

Randall Lackey

sounds like they’ve taken good care of you. Glad to hear it. Enjoy your time off. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you.Safe travels.Hope you have time to post some good pictures. Randall

Barbara G.

Have a good trip home! I guess you have already heard that a white winter wonderland is waiting for you here, you might want to bring some penguins along, they would appreciate it!

Meike

Welch eine Leistung 🙂
Den Urlaub habt Ihr mehr wie verdient.
Geniesst és in D und Dk, ein frohes Weihnachtsfest und die besten Wünsche fürs Jahr 2013.
Peter også til dig en god jul og et godt nytår.
Guten Flug

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