Wed 18/01-2012 Day 142

P1180084.JPG
My nice hosting Navy family, José and nancy with their two kids, in Timbales. Thanks for caring about me!

Pos: here
Loc: Timbales
Acc: Navy Station
Dist: 50,8 km
Start: 5:50 End: 18:10

I woke at 10.30 pm last night, hearing a little bit of water noise not too far away… looking out of my tent, I saw I was almost flooded!!! 30 m more…I got up as fast as possible, pulled the tent pegs out of the ground, and moved my tent with all contents a tad up the beach…
I unloaded he heavy items, and had to drag and carry it up to a higher grassy, but not really even spot to carry on sleeping peacefully. Next morning I saw that was as high the water got…just about..the sandy spot looked so good and as if it would stay fully dry! I saw next morning that the nightly high water was about 60 cm more than the daily one…though only 1,5 m range at all!

I kicked my butt out of the bed at 4.45 am, though I was actually still quite tired from all getting up early and long headwind paddling. But the calmest time of the day is still in the mornings!

Paddling outof the fjord was easy, with some current dragging me out. Three yachts were still sleeping in their usual anchoring bay across my tent site.

Out in the channel, I fought my way against the increasing headwind from tiny bay to tiny bay, seeking any smallest lee I could find. I mostly had the choice between getting out of the tiny lee, or staying inside with some kelp which not always left a clean channel between the kelp area and the rocks. Both paddling is quite unpleasant – constant headwinds around 15 knots, occasionally more or less, or staggering through the more or less thick kelp bed. But I still mostly chose the kelp.

Small water streams or -falls were everywhere, I”d not run short of fresh water here! Some of them I could easily access without even getting out of my boat, I’d just have to reach out from may kayak and hold the water bag or -bottle open…nice! But it was more on offer than I could use.

Beaches were everywhere as well, for a short break or a pee outside the kayak ideal and easy to land on. But they are *always* so small that you could not camp on them, the thick lush forest is starting right behind, with no free space to put up a tent or even to walk through. I tried to spot likely even and dry places all day, but it was not easy. There are some, if you learn to read the landscape. But don’t only look at the beaches!

I had an escort of four big dolphins today, they are so beautiful! The seals seem to be gone for now. Three yachts were passing me soon, probably the three out of the glacier bay sailing together.

I was tempted after every windy headland to call it a day, it is really a slog, this way of paddling! But if I’m not using those around 15 knots head wind days, when else should I make distance? Crossing two larger fjord openings was as windy as it could be, and I just got them at the time where the continuous rain today was increasing, and the stronger wind coming with the heavier rain.

But after each crossing there was a lee beach to relax! At least something…I think I was getting out of the kayak for a short break about ten times today…very unusual for me. It has some advantages in this stop and go head wind paddling!
The peeing is easier as well with the freshette standing up like a man :-), and while eating I’m not getting blown back wards.

P1190088.JPG
The idyllic located "Hotel Navy" in Timbales

I knew of the Navy Station Timbales about 41 km away, but with all those paddling into the bays, including deep into the fjords to cross them in a bit of shelter, made it eventually 50 km. Plus, my first GPS spot was 3,5 km too short…what a disappointment! I could not see the station until 800 m into the last bay, so great excitement whether  it would be in the bay I was eventually thinking it must be in… what a relief to eventually see the “Hotel Navy”

Though I was not announcing myself José and Nancy with their two kids were warmly welcoming me – literally! The hot shower was a delight, the laundry machine, the dinner, and a dry and even bed…thanks a lot for hosting me and helping me identifying some good spots ahead! This Navy station was located on a beautiful low headland in an open vally right on the “cross road” of many channels. It was a new, modern, big double story house, with a bedroom with two bunk beds and kitchen for occasional extra staff. A huge waterfall was running in the rear of the steep valley, this was really idyllic! Still, the family hadn’t seen visitors for four weeks now, only seeing the daily ship traffic passing by…in the long run, living in such remote places must be feeling quite tough. Though they had all modern amenities like all the other Navy stations: TV, internet, laundry machines, electricity, an intact family life must be the most important thing.

Until Punta Arenas, there won’t be another of those remote heavens…actually very sad! It feels so good to dry out, get my laundry done, charging the electronics and even have some nice company! I’d have loved to stay another day, but some reasonable headwind was lurking tomorrow…

Still, with all those extra chores and distractions at night, I was falling to bed dead tired, and again too late, though not having typed anything that same day…

1 comment on “Wed 18/01-2012 Day 142

Don Hebel

The Kelp and Wind paddling sounds tedious and tiring, but it must be a beautiful place!

Comments are closed