Wed 28/01-2015 Day 764

Camp on the whitest beach with the most crystal clear water of Brazil at Cabo Frio - after the tourists left and before the gusty night...


Highlights: A quite sophisticated paddling day
Lowlights: A bit tough but satisfying
Launch: Sheltered beach with rocks
Landing: Sheltered beach with catabatic gusts
Pos: here
Loc: Ilha do Cabo Frio
Acc: tent
Dist: 58,8 km
Start: 6:00 End: 17:15

I didn’t know if I’d cross over to the tip of the Armacao dos Buzios headland until I was on the water. It was actually not too bad, saving minimum 12 km and some headwind paddling. Different to yesterda,y the angel of the wind and waves was just about pushing. I made progress all right, just on the last 5 km the wind turned slightly to the east and I had to fight a bit harder.

The a fat island on the top of the headland I mistook for a long while for the right headland and almost headed outside, when I noticed my mistake and could turn in to paddle closer to the coast. Not that it helped in any way, as since I hit the first headland it was rough and bumpy all along the eastern side. I made my way from headland to headland, leaving out the bays, paddling close to the rocks with all the might of the reflection of the rolling in north eastern sea. A few smaller sea caves were nice to see again, also the high cliffs being occupied by birds! It was not dangerous, just fun, and I probably just made more way up and down than headway to get along!

I crossed over the first sandy wide bay, and decided after Ilha Emerencia de Dentro to paddle in a direct line as close to Cabo Frio as the wind allowed. Well, once I am on the straight line, quite offshore the beaches, I couldn’t say I felt the need to go in again as soon it became a bit windier and rough…

A fleet of seven fishing boats were parking in the lee of Ilha Comprida, and they probably knew why…? If that Island, the wind from the top of the high cliff island came down as heavily catabatic and gusty, the rolling in sea became a tad bit big and rough through the Canal de Papageios.Who cares…the sea is still relatively low, and barely breaking…it was just bloody windy! And it is only 10 km to the gap between Ilha dos Porcos into the calm sheltered bay of Cabo Frio…and it will become calmer the closer I’ll be getting…if it is too bad, I can always head in.

Not a single meter of those 10km from Ilha Comprida to Ilha dos Porcos got calmer, it was rough, occasional breaking and probably 25 knots or more windy. But I was stubborn and was riding it out like in trance, feeling really one piece with the sea and my kayak. The last 100 m were even more bumpy with the reflection of the cliffs until I was in the real shelter of the island.

Besides fishing boats inside, there were only two motorboats outside. I really hate when they don’t keep track, sliding to the right and left, probably just to see me better of the fucking lifted bow on high speed. And once they saw me they decide to come as close as possible to have a better look, mostly still in high speed…it is so scary!I am always waving my paddle as early as possible, and if they mistake it as an emergency signal, it is really what it is. STAY AWAY! Eventually I have usually to wave my arms to the side signalizing to stay off as much as possible. I had such an encounter already with that nasty bastard in Venezuela running really over my stern…!

I checked the beach to the right of Areial de Cabo, looking remote on the sat images, but it was full of umbrellas. The same with the beach on the northern side inside the Cape.

The most remote and probably most beautiful one I assumed I’d be kicked off by some guards, as it is probably nature protected. Two boats were still anchoring, with about 50 people on the north eastern corner, a third one just left with the pack. The sat image shows it much worse…but it was 5pm already, time to go home for the day beach tourists coming here with a boat only! Time to become “my” beach…a sign says it is considered the most perfect beach in Brazil…it would be 100% perfect with trash cans…

The Navy had a small post at the south western end, and surely when the last boat has left and I felt at home, two Navy guys came and tried to tell me to leave…sure I was able to convince them about my “special case” and stayed. They even invited me to stay in the house, thanks…but no way, my home is my castle…

This beach had some of the whitest sand I have ever seen, reaching far into the sea. On paddling, the sun made my shadow reflecting on the bottom of the absolute crystal clear sea. Fascinating…but also here heavy catabatic gusts made some water hoses running over the sea, and sand hoses over the beach. This is really a special corner! Not that I felt cold on Cabo Frio in any way, the water inside is luke warm, the air also. See how it is outside tomorrow!

It is still supposed to be a bit windy from the NE on Thursday, from Friday on lowest wind from all directions and in the after noon from the south will be directing the weather.

I will probably arrive in Rio on Friday very late afternoon!

7 comments on “Wed 28/01-2015 Day 764

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Randall Lackey

Seems the wind is really giving you a last strong effort of defeating you before your finish.we know you are not letting it get the best if you though.Fight on.Safe paddling.


Brazil has some of the best beaches in the world. Buzios attracts thousands of tourists every year

Frances Price

So you did some “mountain climbing” from your description of going up and down, Freya! It would be wonderful to see video of that beautiful beach where you are camping, but I shall be content with the photographs you are so faithful to provide. Thank you for the lovely images you paint with words. Happy paddling!

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