Mon 26/03-2012 Day 210

My poor kayak (down at the water line) had to be dragged over the wide boulder beach

Pos: here
Loc: Caleta Ayacara
Acc: tent
Dist: 44,5 km
Start: 8:10 End: 16:40

I had to overcome this morning the same low tide trap as on the last beach, dragging the boat out over a wide belt of round slippery rocks of the size of coconuts. But there is worse dragging for a kayak, for me and for the kayak bottom.

People twice passed by my tent this night, two men at 4.45 am, and another one or two at 5 am, but as they were shining with their flashlights along their way I assumed they didn’t have anything bad on their minds. They were probably just the same local fishermen from yesterday evening, living in the houses out there on the land spit walking to their boats anchored inside the island. I assume their workday starts early, and with high tide. I heard some words like “incredible” when they were passing…is that Spanish, too?

The whole coastline is inhabited now, especially the Fjord side where I am camping now. It has even a road going along, where I saw a few mini busses, trucks and cars. Not sure though if they are connected to the Puerto Montt roads. The other smaller villages before probably didn’t have any road access.

A lot of fishing boats are out there, people must live on something! I am giving a friendly wave to most of them, and most of them are waving back, or calling something I can’t understand. Actually a pity I can’t talk to them!

It is kind of a pleasure after so many lonely paddling weeks in unspoilt nature to see the buzz of the civilization again, working noises on the shore, people riding horses (not for pleasure, I assume), fishermen busy in their boats…though finding a matching lonely campsite is becoming harder now.

I’m camping tonight close to the road, but hidden behind bushes. I just saw a bunch of sheep leaving the beach were I am now, but I assume I’ll stay undisturbed here.

Tomorrow I’ll cross 40 km over that bay, boring… :-(, weather is still easy going.

On the “NOMADS of THE SEAS” I learned that my time change I thought I had to do leaving the portage section was wrong, it was still only 4 hours behind Germany. I have to change again my starting and finishing time since then. But today it’s again 5 hours, as Germany changed to summertime. Complicated…

Meike Michaliks brother Jörg Bauer, my host in Puerto Montt, is so kind to pick me up around Isla Calbuco, to save me paddling 27 km into the dead end bay of Puerto Montt, Seno Reloncavi, and also back out again. A whole day saved! I already didn’t like it in Argentina to paddle into the dead end of the towns in the rivers, so this is also a very nice pick up! Thanks!

6 comments on “Mon 26/03-2012 Day 210

Hi there! I know this is kinda off topic but I was wondering which blog platform are you using for this site? I’m getting tired of WordPress because I’ve had problems with hackers and I’m looking at alternatives for another platform. I would be fantastic if you could point me in the direction of a good platform.

Today, while I was at work, my cousin stole my iphone and tested to see if it can survive a 30 foot drop, just so she can be a youtube sensation. My iPad is now broken and she has 83 views. I know this is entirely off topic but I had to share it with someone!


viel Spass bei der Überfahrt. Werde an Dich denken.In Montt sind sie alle auf Abruf. Du hast ja alle Telefonummern nicht wahr. Wenn du mit der einen nicht durchkommst, nimmst du einfach eine der anderen. Wie gerne wäre ich da :-))
einen schönen Tag

Rico V

Hi Freya, I used to live on that peninsula (Comau) that you are camped on tonight. That is the “lost” section of the Great Southern Highway. The road does not connect directly to the mainland and Puerto Montt, but transport ferries stop in the main town of Ayacara weekly. It is a wonderful place with great people. There are amazing hand-built Alerce wood double seakayaks in the town of Poyo on the north end of the peninsula. You should stop by and check them out on your way by. They are in the little cafe located right at the floating dock. I have had many amazing paddling trips throughout those fjords. The hotsprings of Cahuelmo on the inside fjord of the peninsula are fantastic and you can paddle right upto them on high tide.
Rico V


Incredible just about describes your whole trip. In Spanish it is “Increible” and I guess the locals got word of your adventure. Puerto Montt looks like a pretty busy city; I suspect you will run into a lot more boat traffic as you approach the bay. Paddle on…

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