Day 306, Thursday, 19.11.2009

I slept allright in my tent that night, jst had to use my ear plugs again to easy my mind off the surf noise. It was probably better, as next morning, looking out of my tent, I noticed the swell and surf had lifted quite a bit!

Shit, I should have taken that possibility into my account, landing on this actually fully unprotected beach! It was easy no to low surf yesterday, and even without increasing wind over night, still the swell came up from wayyyyyy far away, and created some heavy dumping breakers!

Ok…I had to get out somehow…actually, I guessed it can’t be that bad. As usually, time it right, and you’d be out without any problem…

At least I was so cautious to secure everything in my boat, even stowed all the electronics in my under deck bag. I forgot just an orange, carrot and apple which stayed under the deck net under the map case. And my sponge was stuck under a tight bungee inside the cockpit, no clip possible. But I didn’t really expect to bail out!!!

But this is what was happening. The problem with a loaded boat is to get it afloat with me sitting inside with the spraydeck closed, without getting washed sideways up the beach before you can paddle straight out.

I tried to time it right, to be afloat just before the zone where the first dumper ususally crashes with the then hopefully decreasing dumpers. Usually no problem, keep the bow pointed into the foamy water, and try to stay straight and on the spot. Just wait for the dumpers getting lowere and a lull showes up, and then sprint out…

But this time, I sat there too early and too long. The dumpers increased in size, instead of decreasing, and I got washed to the right towards a worse breaker zone. Eventually, a fat one came closer to me and broke instead of just before me right on me… It capsized me, and on sorting myself under water out for a roll, I touched the ground with my helmet. No good, before you break yor neck, rather get out here and off the might of the next breaker…

I came up the surface, and was just able to avoid my own boat to crash on me, lifted by the next, probably even bigger breaker! I saw my lovely kayak flying vertically through the air, swallowed some salty water, and struggled to get some ground under my feet. Good I had my helmet on…the boat got thrown almost on a bit of a reef rock, but sucked back in the surge out to the sea again. Nothing I could do now…I had just to look after myself, as I was not safe yet either, and got trashed again by another breaker and eventually washed up the beach, all gear full of sand. Yuck!

All the time, I could luckily hold onto my paddle…good I never have it on a leash on landing and launching! It may have been wrapped around the flying boat, and either the leash would have been ripped off, or the paddle broken by the heavy boat rolling up the beach…

The first thing I was looking for, sitting high and dry on the sand, was for sure for my kayak! Where was it? Still afloat behind a breaker, about to be flying through the air another time? But no, there it was already, about 30 m to my left, high and dry as well…and obviously in one piece! I was quite relieved, actually…

The boat was full of sandwater. Seat pads, waterbags, all clipped to my backrest, were hanging outside. By putting it on the edge, I was able to toss most of the water out. But my favorite sponge was gone! This was quite a loss…how to get the rest of the water out of the cockpit, and the continuous puddle magically appearing on the bottom of the cockpit during the all day’s paddles? I had to use my scarf after the manual pump got to the bottom of it’s possible use.

But oh well, after regaining my constitution, dragging the boat up thebeach off the small reef rocks and reorganizing the inside of my kayak, I had to start over again.

This time, I was really waiting with the boat almost afloat in the surge, holding it to the decklines more or less straight, until the biggest breakers were through. But for once, I couldn’t prevent the surge washing the heavy boat right on my chins, pinning my whole body into the sand under the boat…not a good place to be.

But eventually I decided to jump in *now*, closed the spraydeck in a hurry and was happy to stay afloat straight without being washed sideways up the beach again. I saw  the breakers getting lower, and paddled out with all power I had left that morning, praying the path would stay open without any breaker crashing right on top of me…my prayer was heard somehow and I got out unscathed on that second try. I was sighting in relief on the open calm sea! It was just some long swell going up and down, but the wind was still lowish. And it turned to be a moderate to strong nicely pushing following wind that day! Something friendly for the change…

The paddle itself was quite offshore, and not much exciting to see besides my friends, the dolphins. It’s always a relief to realize the fin appearing besides you is a curved one and not a straight triangle one with another stern one following…

I could have landed already before Cape Finniss, between Waldegrave Island and the mainland, but I was aiming for Elliston, a small community just around Cape Finniss, inside Waterloo Bay. I needed to fill up fresh water for th enext remote legs. The entrance of waterloo Bay is guarded with wide heavy reef breaks, but if you line up the jetty with yourself, you’ll find a safe path of unbroken water to paddle into the wide calm bay. No problem, just patience outside the heavy break, until that clean line shows up!

Just as I landed easily, a car came up to me with Joan and Pedro Martin, a local crayfisherman. They brought me a new sponge! Actually, when I called Greg right after my then successfull launch, he decided to organize a new one to get brought to me when I landed in Elliston…he even does support me from the distance…thank you, Greg! He was ringing up the local fishermen, and asked if someone would be happy to provide a new sponge…thanks to Joan and Pedro Martin to bring me one!

I camped up in the dunes, after I was able to use the (cold) shower on the local beach facilities. I filled all my waterbags, but after looking on my maps, I realized I should better take more than my 16 liters of water capacity with me! Why the hell didn’t I take more waterbags from the van?

Joan and Pedro were helpful again, and supplied me in the darkness with a one-way 10-liter bladder plus three pump-bottles of fresh water. Thanks again! 28 liters should get me to at least Kangaroo island, where I knew for sure I’d find some shacks with fresh water!

Later, I learnt via blog comments there would be fresh water on Thistle, Wedge and Althorpe Island as well. Thanks for the information, guys! 

 

33.38 134.53 Elliston 6.30 to 16.30 50 km

Had a crappy start from that beach, surf lifted over night unexpectedly to heavy dumping lines. I had to bail out and swim…second try all right. The days paddle was a pleasure. 15-25 kn following winds, for the change! No sharks, but plenty of dolphins again.

13 comments on “Day 306, Thursday, 19.11.2009

Mark Deuter

Thanks Brad, I bow to superior experience re Althorpe, etc. It’s a tricky bit of coastline to negotiate, all prior knowledge is helpful.
Cheers Mark. 🙂

Aileen

Hi,
Can you please advise your arrival date at Port Lincoln and where you will be landing?
Thanks and we hope to see you there.

Brad Butler

Hi Freya,
It seems you are getting a lot of contradictory information about the Port Lincoln to Victor Harbor leg of your journey. I do not want to disparage anyones previous comments but I am a regular expedition sea kayaker that lives in Victor Harbor. I have paddled to Althorpe Island several times and have paddled the north shore of Kangaroo Island several times as well.
Anyway, I have also paddled from Port lincoln to Cape Jervis. We took an Island jumping path – to Thistle island on to Wedge Island then Pondalowie Bay and then direct to Snellings Beach. We then picked our way along the North shore of KI before paddling direct from Kingscote to Cape Jervis.
There are of course other ways to do it. If I was doing it again I would go Wedge to Althorpe direct and then Althorpe to Stokes Bay.
Because there is good quality water at each point we carried 4L on board for each leg plus drinking water for the day.
On Thistle island there is a beautiful protected bay and the yachties have built a shelter near the beach that was a rain water tank attached. It also has chairs and a table.
On Wedge Island there are only a few shacks and there are rarely people there. There are rain water tanks on all the buildings. One of the shacks is owned by a friend and has an outside solar powered shower. (Greatly appreciated by me).
At Pondalowie Bay there is a campsite that is a bit of a walk but it obviously has rudamentary facilities for surfers including showers and water.
On Althorpe there is a good beach (for kayakers). Honestly you will see it and think “simple” especially compared to some of your other landings it is easy. The beach faces North and is protected from almost all Southerlies.
I understand the jetty at Althorpe has been condemned and the walk to the top has supposedly been closed but my experience is that the Jetty is in ok shape as long as you don’t want to tie a 50ft fishing boat up to it.
The path to the top is not immediately obvious but once you are on the path each section is clear and again compared to what you have experienced on the trip it is not a big deal.
PS – You gain 90m in elevation going to the top. So don’t leave the matches in the kayak. Ha Ha
At the top of Althorpe Island there are 3 cottages and a lighthouse. One of the cottages is in pretty good condition. Only problem we had out there last time was 350 mouse running around.
There is a lovely rhubarb patch next to the house if you like rubarb and apple crumble.
I understand that government departments have completed reports on Althorpe Island discouraging access but honestly for a paddler it is quite accessible and provides an ooportune break in the crossing to Kangaroo Island.
It is a good paddle to Kangaroo Island and depending on where you land you will find good water.
There is water available on the north Coast of KI at Snug cove, Western River cove, Snellings beach, Stokes bay and Emu Bay.
The north shore of KI is a yachties paradise and just lovely paddling. There are shacks and houses scattered along the coast and noone will deny a paddler a little bit of water.
At Kingscote you can get a good feed and a shower then either paddle via Penneshaw or direct to Cape Jervis.
I am keeping an eye on your progress through your next ten days and hope to paddle with you at some stage.

Bill and Jill Wray

Yes, Freya, I endorse Mark’s comments above . I was there in March this year. The beach is only accessable at low tide. The jetty is derelict and there is no water and you cannot access the upper plateau without a helicopter! Cable Hut Beach is good, but no water. I can bring water out to Cape Spencer if conditions allow, or meet you at Cable Hut Beach, which is nice camping.
Good luck, Bill Wray

Mark Deuter

Hi Freya, just a thought on Althorpe Island. I have heard that the only possible landing site on the Island is a very tiny beach that can only be accessed at low tide – it disappears at high tide – and there are big cliffs close behind it. Judging from what I see on Google Earth that looks right. It may not be a good choice for camping overnight with a loaded boat even though it is 10km closer to Kangaroo Island. Cable Hut Beach on the mainland would be a more reliable camp site I think. Anyone else with Althorpe experience want to comment ? Bill Wray I know you have been there.

BTW Freya, great effort to keep plugging away in our unseasonal heat. I hope you get to paddle some of our beautiful coastline in some nicer weather soon.

Cheers Mark D.

Hi Freya,
I have just finished watching – This Is The Sea 3, interesting DVD. How is the body feeling? Very impressed and envious of your adventure. You will have many great memories to keep for ever. Keep up the good work and I will see you out on the water sometime when you hit the Victorian coastline. Until then, happy paddling and enjoy 🙂

Gidday Freya
I live in Port Lincoln and are currently working afternoon shift and have to be home by about 3 pm to get ready for work . If you need water allowing for these work times at Sleaford I can be contacted on 0428872019. Just ring me the day or night before. If I am not home leave a message and phone number with my wife and I will be more than happy to help out. I have been following your trip now for ten months and it is awe inspiring.
Also at Farm beach which is at the base of Mt Dutton (east of point Sir Isaac at the entrance to Coffin bay) there are numerous shacks(some have full time occupants) just over the back of the boat ramp I am sure if you are short of water you could walk just over the boat ramp only a couple of hundred metres and ask and someone will only be to happy fill you up.
Anything else you need on the way past I am only to happy to help I am only a phone call away and will travel out to any point along the way that is accessable by a two wheel drive if needed.
All the best
Jeff Port Lincoln

Sandy

To Freya’s wonderfully supportive sister Edda.
So pleased to hear you will be able to come to our “lucky country” to support your sister’s triumphant completion of her incredible journey. Well done, and enjoy.

Bill and Jill Wray

Dear Freya,
Water will be an issue, we cannot help with Eyre Peninsular, but are 3 hours from the bottom of York Peninsular. If you need help, we can be at the bottom of York with water and/ or supplies. We can meet at Cable Bay or Pondalowie if needed. There are facilities at Stenhouse
Good Luck

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