[pe2-image src=”http://lh4.ggpht.com/-N9nLTFR2tEo/UT0RR3rr3KI/AAAAAAAATe4/dRUD2c34jis/s144-c/P3071841.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection2Stage13PanamaBoarderColombiaPacificToBoarderColombiaCaribbean#5853854089354140834″ caption=”Approaching the perfect lonely Island Bartholomé” type=”image” alt=”P3071841.JPG” ]
Pos: here
Loc: Isla Bartholomé
Acc: tent
Dist: 32,4 km
Start: 5:50 End: 15:10
No paddling tomorrow
I got up early and was on the water before sunrise,the last bit of moon was light enough for this very easy launch. It is so relaxing when the sea is just “gently lapping” on the beach, instead of crashing in with heavy breakers…
The plan was to catch the early morning rising tide going north. Surely I had to drag my kayak and gear a long 100 m down the wide sandy flat beach on lowest tide, but that was the least problem. The north going tide must have happened somewhere more out, with the islands in the back, I felt nothing pushing at all. Just the north headwind all day, mostly 15 knots, only maybe two hours around 10 knots. In any rate I was always pushed back on any tiny rest, and I was crawling along wit 3-4 km/h. Not much fun!!!
I tried to enjoy the many pelicans and other sea birds feeding on the obviously many fish, watched a few motorboats passing by, and on the last Island there was the big people’s live – on all beaches there were hotels, apartment buildings and fancy houses, an airport with a few planes starting, and boats allover. Even an old wrecked motor catamaran was on one white sandy beach, I can only imagine they “parked” it on purpose there as a “tourist attraction”.
[pe2-image src=”http://lh3.ggpht.com/-2OVtYlSPQwo/UT0R8Z8Ac7I/AAAAAAAATfY/fYmONDYXGvg/s144-c/P3071850.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection2Stage13PanamaBoarderColombiaPacificToBoarderColombiaCaribbean#5853854820103910322″ caption=”The north beach on Isla Bartholomé stays not dry on high tide” type=”image” alt=”P3071850.JPG” ]
But MY beach for tonight was not on that island – I was heading to the tiny remote Isla Bartholomé a bit north, a tip from my yachties yesterday. I was most happy to leave the big life asides, and to play Robinson on my own island, in sight of the inhabited one, just thinking how different I love to be from the crowd…if someone sees me camping here from one of the hotels or boats with binoculars, I can not imagine that person is not envious…
[pe2-image src=”http://lh6.ggpht.com/-rgX4aNYM3rM/UT0R4LHs3CI/AAAAAAAATfI/ei8NIqwgaUc/s144-c/P3071848.JPG” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/112133179186774955122/SouthAmericaSection2Stage13PanamaBoarderColombiaPacificToBoarderColombiaCaribbean#5853854747406949410″ caption=”Many pelicans on Isla Bartholomé” type=”image” alt=”P3071848.JPG” ]
My island had a wide white sandy beach with a few coral rests, and flat cliffs with many many pelicans all around. Other sea birds were soaring all afternoon above the trees. I discovered a perfect campsite inside the open forest, someone has been using that spot quite often. Other sandy beaches appeared on low tide, but my southern one was the only one to land on. I took a swim in the relatively cool water, and for the first time I pulled out my mask and snorkel…not that it was much worth just across the sandy beach, I should have floated over the rocks, but my energy level didn’t reach for that. It was just a nice introduction for the upcoming Caribbean…
I saw about five or six sail boats today, it seems to be a popular cruising area in this archipelago. Actually it would be also a perfect sea kayak destination for two weeks or more!
To reach Panama City, I originally planned to paddle via Isla Chepilla close to the mainland north of the archipelago, then to head west along the coast to Panama City. On direct line it would be 65 km to Balboa Yacht Club, usually no problem, but in this north wind *and* strong current it proved to be no fun and I would have to paddle out of or into the night or both. But I decide making a detour of 20 km is no fun either.
As my energy level is low after three days strong headwind paddling, I will now go with the second option, paddling direct line 65 km, but starting sometimes around 3-4 am on Saturday, well rested with a day off tomorrow. Saturday is a slight bit less headwind anyway. I don’t know if I have to paddle into the night to reach Panama City, it all depends on the wind and current situation, plus the combination of both making waves or not. But it may be quite nice to reach the big city at night with all the light! But no worries, I have a GPS and will be well lit myself with all the boat traffic…
In Panama City, I will be hosted by Hennie Mareis with his crew from www.paddlepanama.com. Nice to have for the change a private host! They will look after me with all my needs. Thanks very much! I am really looking forward to be in Panama City! We have scheduled a press conference on Wednesday, 2 pm, in the Balboa Yacht Club. I am hoping we have solved until then the Canal question…
5 comments on “Thu 07/03-2013 Day 415”
Ahh!! Isla Bartolome.
That’s the place from where I saw whales for the first and only time. Definitely is a paradise island, perfect place to redeem body and soul. It has its owners, but thanks God they haven’t filled with hotels and kept it unhabitated. I think is the island where the tribal council took place in that Survivor reality show.
Glad to hear you found a nice little paradise island to rest and enjoy a day to yourself.The people in the hotels nearby would surely be jealous if they knew how enjoyable camping on an island and the peace and solitude can be. Be safe and enjoy your rest.
Wow Freya. Totally riveted by your blogs at the moment, having been thru the canal myself. I did it the other way, and for me , when those last lock gates opened up , and I was looking a THE PACIFIC for the first time, it was quite an emotional moment.
Probably for you, you loved the Pacific part of this trip this time , and maybe part of enjoying these islands is linked to that????
Nice comment from Don above, and it is a lovely Irish expression about the wind being at your back, but all I’ll say is that its a good job you like headwinds. Tradewinds all the way from Trinidad and Tobago. But you know that already I am certain. Least they are usually gentle 15 knots….
But I am agog how you will get thru the canal. can’t wait!
Freya, the Island sounds wonderful. It is becoming more and more rare to find places, spaces and land or water to be alone in nature. As the Human population continues to increase this puts pressure on the islands that we seek for refuge. These places outside of us or in our mind are necessary for our evolution as a species. We need space and retreat spaces to reflect and regenerate. This is also important to so many fragile ecosystems. We really are interconnected on this planet. If only we knew the air we breath. In Kindness, Karen
Amazing. You are about to say goodbye to the Pacific Ocean. You keep an amazing pace. Most days you are covering more than the distance of a marathon and you are taking all of your gear along with you!
Right now you are in the island group that served as the site for two seasons of the Survivor TV show. I bet you could have won.
Looking forward to your canal passage and your next leg through the Carribean. May the wind be always at your back.
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